Enter the new year with a bath

Cinili Hamam in Zeyrek

By Alexandra de Cramer photography by Monica Fritz | August 1, 2024


Unusually, these elegant domed rooftops can be admired at a closer perspective, reached by a simple staircase behind the museum.

Nestled in the Zeyrek district of Fatih, this serene and pristine oasis stands in stark contrast to the surrounding bustle of Istanbul’s butchers, who come here to buy their meat.

The cold room. 

 As is often the case with cultural heritage sites that have spanned nearly 500 years, some tiles and architectural elements were lost to Istanbul’s fires and earthquakes, while others were stolen by the Parisian art dealer Ludovic Lupti and sold off. One of these tiles ended up in the Victoria & Albert Museum’s collection in London in 1984, sold by none other than Lupti himself. Given this history, the current restoration is no small feat.

Inspite of the heat, water and later modifications these remarkable opus sectile floors have endured nearly five centuries. These floors were meticulously documented, cleaned, reinforced, and restored to their original locations during conservation efforts and missing sections were carefully supplemented with matching or similar marble pieces, preserving the integrity of the design. 

Construction began in 1540, but Barbaros never witnessed its completion. The building was finished six years later under the direction of architect Mimar Sinan, and it is considered one of Sinan’s earliest works.

The hot room.

After more than a decade of meticulous restoration, Hızır Reis Hamam reopened in September 2023, now serving both as a functioning Turkish bath and a museum complex. The hamam is particularly renowned for the striking blue-and-white Iznik çini tiles that adorn its walls, from which it takes its name. These tiles were custom-made for the space and make up the majority of its interior.

Some of the many gorgeous architecture details.

The warm room. 

The transformation of the Turkish bath’s space can be traced through time, with the museum’s exhibit guiding visitors from the 5th to the 20th century. A particular highlight is the Çini Hall, where over 3,000 tiles featuring 37 unique designs have been meticulously recovered.

As is often the case with cultural heritage sites that have spanned nearly 500 years, some tiles and architectural elements were lost to Istanbul’s fires and earthquakes, while others were stolen by the Parisian art dealer Ludovic Lupti and sold off. One of these tiles ended up in the Victoria & Albert Museum’s collection in London in 1984, sold by none other than Lupti himself. Given this history, the current restoration is no small feat.

Other displays delve into the archaeology of bathing culture, showcasing items such as the nalın and takunya — traditional high-heeled bath shoes, named according to the height of their heels.

These distinctive shoes, with their hourglass shape, were handcrafted from various materials, including wood, often adorned with intricate ivory inlay. The quality of craftsmanship, attention to detail, and choice of materials all symbolized the wearer’s status and prestige.

This hammamiye tile was originally located in the men’s hot room of Zeyrek Çinili Hamam prior to restoration. These eight rectangular tiles feature Persian couplets in nasta‘līq script from a poem, highlighting the hammam's significance in Ottoman literary tradition. Inspired by the vibrant social and aesthetic life of hammams, poets like Nâbî, Fuzulî, and Nedîm composed hammamiye poems, a unique genre praising the beauty and charm of hammam settings. 

Bathing rituals have long been a vital social tradition in Anatolia and beyond. Whether for the kına hamamı (bridal bath) or kırklama (a ceremonial washing of a newborn’s head with 40 bowls of water for good luck), hammams have consistently been at the heart of celebratory customs. Why not usher in 2025 with a revitalizing initiation bath at the iconic Zeyrek Çinili Hamam?

https://zeyrekcinilihamam.com/en

Treatments range from 3,816 TL to 10,902 TL. and can be booked through the website. 

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