Antiques (and not quite): the Üsküdar flea market

Monica's meanderings (cont.)

By Monica Fritz | December 10, 2017


Uskudar's flea market is one, or maybe even the last, of the bazaars in Istanbul where a bargain is still to be found. On a Saturday afternoon the empty shops and busier workshops have a sleepy atmosphere – a shopkeeper actually remembered me from when I bought my first furniture...

Feeling Right at Home in Salon

A Day at One of Istanbul’s Hottest Venues

By Ezgi Üstündağ | December 4, 2017


When I walked into Salon IKSV on November 10, ceramic mug and notebook in hand, it was the first time I’d ever seen it empty. The brightly-lit room–a dark grey floor connecting the small stage on one end to the sound booth and bar stocked on the other, with stairs...

Turning an old leaf at sad, abandoned Haydarpaşa Station

The Haydarpaşa old books festival

By Monica Fritz | December 3, 2017


Today, December 3, is the last day of the Haydarpasa Sahaf Festival, an alternative way to browse second-hand books on the first track of the semi-abandoned, mythical train station jutting out into the Bosphorus that once served travellers to far-off destinations across Asia from Baghdad to Tehran. You can still...

Weekend gallery guide: Odysseys and Oracles

Ai Weiwei's provocative porcelain works

By Katie Nadworny | November 23, 2017


The Biennial has wrapped up but there’s still plenty of art to see in the city. If you were too busy exploring Biennial events to see some of the other notable exhibits, now is your chance. Ai Weiwei On Porcelain at Sakıp Sabancı Museum, Emirgan The Chinese artist and provocateur...

A Living Tribute

10th Annual Nâzım Hikmet Poetry Competition Accepting Submissions through January 15, 2018

By Ezgi Üstündağ | November 13, 2017


Poets around the world are invited to submit their original work to the 10 th annual Nâzım Hikmet Poetry Competition. The competition, judged by award-winning academics, poets and translators, will remain open until January 15, 2018. Aside from a monetary award of $100, competition winners and honorable mentions will be invited to read...

Wish you were here

Monica’s meanderings

By Cornucopia | November 11, 2017


A beautiful Golden Horn morning view from a hidden-away student cafe called Mimar Sinan Cafe on a side street off of the Süleymaniye Mosque. The spectacle unfolds four storeys up a dark and kitsch stairwell. Photograph: Monica Fritz (part 3 of her series of Sunday postcards)

Turkey turns to the classical world to attract visitors

Troy and Şanliurfa are features of London’s World Travel Mart

By Roger Williams | November 6, 2017


Turkey is highlighting Anatolia’s ancient civilisations at the three-day World Travel Mart, which opened in London today. Its large stand at the Excel centre contained a Trojan horse the size-and-a-half of a real horse to herald 2018 as the Year of Troy, celebrating 20 years since the sight was put...

Autumn sunset

Monica’s meanderings

By Cornucopia | November 5, 2017


Moda, October 15, 2017 Istanbul loves a good sunset. Monica Fritz, Cornucopia’s photographer-at-large, captures the dying day in Moda on the Asian side of the Bosphorus. Sharpshooters, lovers, smart phones and fishermen gather on the shore of the Sea of Marmara to share the moment.   Café life in the...

Nelson’s Ottoman decoration goes on show

The sultan’s glittering gift has been re-created

By Roger Williams | October 30, 2017


Was it Horatio or his chelengk that attracted Emma? In the 1941 film That Hamilton Woman Laurence Olivier played Lord Nelson opposite Vivien Leigh’s Emma Hamilton. The wife of the British Ambassador in Naples, William Hamilton, was clearly not the only feather in the admiral's cap. The sparkling turban decoration,...

Republic Day

Monica's meanderings

By Cornucopia | October 29, 2017


In a year that has been one of the most financially crippling in its 500-year history the Grand Bazaar resiliantly raises morale by celebrating today's Republic Day (Cumhuriyet Bayramı) with all the gusto it can summon. Here flags and Atatürk banners bring a festive glow the Yağlıkçılar Sokak, the lively...

Dimitrie Cantemir finds a new audience

Jordi Savall plays in his Ottoman world

By Roger Williams | October 24, 2017


The concert at the Wigmore Hall in London on Saturday (see Events), given by Jordi Savall and Hespèrion XXI, is an opportunity for a British audience to get to know more about Dimitrie Cantemir (1673–1723), whose collection of Turkish, Armenian and Sephardic works in his Book of the Science of...

Portrait of an artist

The muralist that inspired the cover of the new Cornucopia

By Cornucopia | October 23, 2017


Barış Suyabatmaz, the artist whose mural features so prominently in Monica Fritz's photograph on the cover of the latest Cornucopia, out this week, made his career following his family’s footsteps. He is the grandson and son of Istanbul sign-painters and the great-grandson of an Ottoman calligraphist and teaches Traditional Arts...

Howard Hodgkin: a grand gesture

Portrait of an Artist, the Howard Hodgkin sale at Sotheby’s, October 24, 2017

By Thomas Roueché | October 15, 2017


That Howard Hodgkin (1932–2017) was an important collector of Indian Art is well known – not least from the frequent displays of his work internationally (two might be Visions of Mughal India: The Collection of Howard Hodgkin, at the Ashmolean, Oxford; and Sultans of Deccan India, 1500-1700, Opulence and Fantasy,...
Posted in Fine Art, Islamic Art

Weekend gallery guide: Heaven and Hell on Istiklal

Two shows that transcend the Beyoğlu doldrums

By Katie Nadworny | September 29, 2017


İstiklal Caddesi is one of those confounding urban space that can be a heavenly mix of history, vitality and culture, or a hellish experience stumbling over concrete slabs and construction sites, so it’s only appropriate that two exhibitions on the avenue explore the holy and the profane. Behind Mt. Qaf...

First Reflections on the 15th Istanbul Biennial

By Katie Nadworny | September 22, 2017


Istanbul's 15th Biennial, A Good Neighbour, arrives in a Turkey grappling with a particularly eventful two years. I’ve had the opportunity so far to see three of the six main exhibition spaces: The Galata Greek Primary School, the Pera Museum, and the Istanbul Modern. While it’s heartening to see so...

Young masters of the horn

The horn maestro Radovan Vlatković returns to Urla for the 2017 UMA masterclasses

By Berrin Torolsan and John Scott | September 14, 2017


The great Croatian horn-player Radovan Vlatković is giving the first of this year’s masterclasses at the Urla Music Academy (UMA). Four days of happy music-making culminate in a concert at 7pm on Saturday evening (September 17). Tickets are free (and donations towards a wonderful musical project most welcome). Okan Akbaş...

A sporting chance

Heading for the Golden Horn to catch the rowing races

By Emily Arauz | September 8, 2017


The Balkan Rowing Championship takes place in Haliç this year on September 9–10. This will be a ‘Junior’ championship (18 and below). Consequently, the Haliç will be closed to the ship traffic for this event. Rowing races are ideally followed by bicycles or at the finish area but unfortunately following...

Jewellery from Byzantine coins

Metal detectors strike gold in Norfolk

By Roger Williams | August 29, 2017


The fields of Britain are constantly roamed by metal detectorists, hoping that one day they might have the luck of Godfrey Pratt. When recently searching near his home in Attleborough, Norfolk, the amateur archaeologist saw what he thought was a bottle-top. “I was amazed how perfect it came out of...

On an Island

Crossing borders…

By Emily Arauz | August 22, 2017


…Waves roll Lift us in blue Drift us Seep right through And colour us blue… excerpt from ‘The Blue', written by David Gilmour/Polly Samson, on D Gilmour’s On an Island album (2006) David Gilmour’s album On an Island will forever be my summer soundtrack since I first laid eyes on...

Weekend gallery guide: Sprawling and free-wheeling

Istanbul this weekend (August 19–20)

By Katie Nadworny | August 18, 2017


Two very different shows are on view on Bankalar Caddesi, one a sprawling and free-wheeling exhibition of a collective, and the other a collection of various artists. Each, though, use their scope to great effect. Mouth to Mouth at SALT Galata, Karaköy Initially, Mouth to Mouth, the mid-career retrospective of Berlin-based collective...
Current Events