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- CORNUCOPIA
- Issue 12,
1996, £28 (US$56)
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|
HIGHLIGHTS #12 The Black Sea
Issue |
BLACK SEA 1 OVER THE HILLS AND FAR
AWAY By Brian
Sewell Photographs
by Simon Upton | 
| Beyond the towering Black Sea
Mountains lies a hidden landscape rich with forgotten medieval churches. For centuries they were ignored,
their ancient glories allowed to crumble to dust. Before new roads reached the Coruh Valley, Brian Sewell
had to enlist the help of shepherds on his quest to find these forerunners of Romanesque and Gothic
architecture. |  |
|
BLACK SEA 2 THE COUNTRY HOUSES THAT RIDE
THE STORM By
Patricia Daunt Photographs
by Simon Upton | 
| In the rain forests of Turkey's
Black Sea Mountains, where jackals howl and the River Firtina (the Storm) crashes towards the Black Sea, live
the Hemsinli people, who were here when Jason came in search of the Golden Fleece. In more recent years they
prospered as bakers and restaurateurs in Tsarist Russia, returning to their beautiful, haunting country
houses hidden in the hills east of Trabzon. Patrica Daunt visits one family and shares their memories of a
Chekovian rural life. | |
|
BLACK SEA 3 STOPPING TRAIN TO
GEORGIA By David
Barchard Photographs
by Jean Marie del Moral | 
| Step off the train at Sapanca,
only an hour from Istanbul, and you step unexpectedly into eastern Black Sea life, for its inhabitants came
here a century ago from the Caucasus. Despite its position on a major route, travelled by all the characters
of Turkey's history, this small town remains sublimely innocent of its importance. David Barchard wonders
why. | |
|
BLACK SEA 4 FARMHOUSE
STYLE Photographs
by Jean Marie
del Moral | 
| Disappointing it may be for
dedicated Orientalists, but isn't it time to put away the gilt needlepoint, the peacock feathers and the
decorative odalisques weaving silk carpets with hennaed toes? In a modern farmhouse in ancient Bithynia, not
far from the Black Sea shore, the photographer Jean Marie del Moral discovers the puritanical side of Turkish
taste. | |
|
BLACK SEA 5 OUR MAN IN TRABZON Photographs
by Simon
Upton | | Today Trabzon's pretty red-tiled timber houses have been replaced by
concrete hotels; packhorses and persimmon trees have made way for taxis and tarmac. Sir Denis Wright, vice
consul here during the Second World War, looks back with affection over his unforgettable years in this
once-islolated Black Sea port. | |
|
ART THE NEW BABYLON By Christine Thomson | | A vast and newly revealed 17th-century panorama of Istanbul is a
lovingly drawn record of the city. Yet the accompanying text castigates the Ottoman capital as the 'Whore of
Babylon'. Christine Thomson turns detective and reveals it as an elaborate piece of anti-Ottoman propaganda
designed by a Franciscan friar. | |
|
COOKERY EGGS ON A PLATE Text and photographs by Berrin Torolsan | 
| The egg is the most flattering of
partners. Berrin Torolsan makes light work of Turkish classics, from succulent meatloaf to silky meringues,
from tangy sauces to honeyed crepes. RECIPES Yumurta
Dolmasi
Savoury Eggs Mercan
Yuvasi
Stuffed Eggs Kaygana
Spring Omelette Ispanakli Yumurta Eggs with
Spinach Saray Usulu Yumurta
Oeufs a la Serail or 'Moonshine' Eggs Menemen
Scrambled Eggs with Cheese, Tomato and Pepper Eksili Köfte
Tany
Meatballs Balik Corbasi
Fish
Soup Rulo Kofte
Meatloaf with
Eggs | |