Over the hills and far away by Brian Sewell with photographs by Simon Upton
Beyond the towering Black Sea Mountains lies a hidden landscape rich with forgotten medieval churches. For centuries they were ignored, their ancient glories allowed to crumble to dust. Before new roads reached the Coruh Valley, Brian Sewell had to enlist the help of shepherds on his quest to find these forerunners of Romanesque and Gothic architecture.
Top: The long winding road to Ishan, above the valley of th Oltu Cayi, south of Yusefeli. Nine centuries ago this unforgiving landscape inspired supreme feats of ecclesiastical architecture. The hay-gatherer's climb will bring him out onto a narrow plateau of lush orchards clustered around the breathtaking ruins of an abbey hat rivals and predates the glories of Durham and Chartres.
Below: The eleventh-century church at Ishan, its glistening cone of tiles supported on a drum of elegant arches and columns. Ishan's basilical plan and archiectural vernacular of squinches, domes, arches and cones is shared by all the churches of eastern Turkey. Extensive traces of fresco can still be seen.
Trekking in Turkey's Black Sea Mountains by Kate Clow
Kars, The Kackars, Butterflies, Wrestling, Georgian Churches, Wildflowers, Black Sea folk songs and food, all in Cornucopia 42
The country houses that ride the storm by Patricia Daunt with photographs by Simon Upton
In the rain forests of Turkey's Black Sea Mountains, where jackals howl and the River Firtina (the Storm) crashes towards the Black Sea, live the Hemsinli people, who were here when Jason came in search of the Golden Fleece. In more recent years they prospered as bakers and restaurateurs in Tsarist Russia, returning to their beautiful, haunting country houses hidden in the hills east of Trabzon. Patrica Daunt visits one family and shares their memories of a Chekovian rural life.
One of these beautiful mansions is featured in At Home in Turkey by Berrin Torolsan and Solvi dos Santos
Related feature on Black Sea architecture Cornucopia 34
Stopping train to Georgia by David Barchard with photographs by Jean Marie del Moral
Step off the train at Sapanca, only an hour from Istanbul, and you step unexpectedly into eastern Black Sea life, for its inhabitants came here a century ago from the Caucasus. Despite its position on a major route, travelled by all the characters of Turkey's history, this small town remains sublimely innocent of its importance. David Barchard wonders why.
The station at Sabanca was built by the Germans a hundred years ago, as part of the Baghdad Railroad. Even the stationmaster declares himself amazed by the decor: 'No regulation colours these,' he apologised.
More train journeys in Cornucopia: Jane Takka takes the Pamukkale express Cornucopia 27
Cornucopia 35 The Isanbul stations The Orient Express from Paris Istanbul to Ankara by train
Farmhouse style Photographs by Jean Marie del Moral
Disappointing it may be for dedicated Orientalists, but isn't it time to put away the gilt needlepoint, the peacock feathers and the decorative odalisques weaving silk carpets with hennaed toes? In a modern farmhouse in ancient Bithynia, not far from the Black Sea shore, the photographer Jean Marie del Moral discovers the puritanical side of Turkish taste.
Our man in Trabzon Photographs by Simon Upton
Today Trabzon's pretty red-tiled timber houses have been replaced by concrete hotels; packhorses and persimmon trees have made way for taxis and tarmac. Sir Denis Wright, vice consul here during the Second World War, looks back with affection over his unforgettable years in this once-islolated Black Sea port.
Soon after the outbreak of war, Denis and Iona Wright found themselves posted to 'Trebizond'. Life there was lonely, in a closed society made more tense as hostilities drew closer. They found consolation in their pretty residence, its terraced garden, rich with exotic fruit trees, overlooking the anchorage.
Cookery
Eggs on a plate Text and photographs by Berrin Torolsan
The egg is the most flattering of partners. Berrin Torolsan makes light work of Turkish classics, from succulent meatloaf to silky meringues, from tangy sauces to honeyed crepes.
For a complete list of Berrin Torolsan's cookery stories in Cornucopia, see our cookery index. Selected recipes are also available online: menus.
Recipes:
Yumurta Dolmasi Savoury Eggs
Mercan Yuvasi Stuffed Eggs
Kaygana Spring Omelette
Ispanakli Yumurta Eggs with Spinach
Saray Usulu Yumurta Oeufs a la Serail or 'Moonshine' Eggs
Menemen Scrambled Eggs with Cheese, Tomato and Pepper
Eksili Köfte Tangy Meatballs
Balik Corbasi Fish Soup
Rulo Kofte Meatloaf with Eggs
Arts
The new Babylon by Christine Thomson
A vast and newly revealed 17th century panorama of Istanbul is a lovingly drawn record of the city. Yet the accompanying text castigates the Ottoman capital as the 'whore of Babylon'. Christine Thomson turns detective and reveals it as an elaborate piece of anti-Ottoman propaganda designed by a Franciscan friar to provide the motive for a crusade.
Art puts its house in order by Andrew Finkel
The rust-red shutters of an old Ottoman house have been flung back to reveal Istanbul's first private museum of modern art: a living, working memorial to the achievements of Ercmend Kalmik, painter and educator.
The house and studio of Feyhaman and Guzin Duran Cornucopia 42
Add Issue 12 to the basket £28/US$44.80 Published 1997
Book reviews by David Barchard, Antony Wynn, John Carswell and Philippa Scott
Botany: A field guide to Anatolia's crocuses by Andrew Byfield
Connoisseur: Orientaslist, Byzantine and Ottoman art
Counterpoint: Norman Stone in Ankara, Peter Wimsey in Azerbaijan and Andrew Finkel in Washington. Textiles: Haute couture from Artisan's founder Bilge Mestci
