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Cornucopia No 28, Vol 5,

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Cover story

 

The Caucasus
The peoples that time forgot
by
Robert Chenciner

With commentary on the beautiful images of Caucasian peoples from the Russian Ethnographic Museum.,St Petersburg exhibited at the Hessenhuis, Antwerp in 2001

The Russian love affair with the Caucasus has been long and cruel, though the outside world knows little of the multitude of ethnic groups who for millennia have inhabited this remote strip of land the size of France.
In 2001, however, a remarkable catalogue was published. It reveals a unique collection of artefacts which for years have stood gathering dust in the vaults of a St Petersburg museum.
Here Robert Chenciner examines the book and introduces a selection of its poignant photographs.

 

 

Wedding party: The young Crimean bride in the centre and her sisters-in-law wear silk dresses with lace ruffs and cuffs. Heavy jewellery is much in evidence: silver-gilt filigree belts, a 'tablet' bead necklace from Central Asia, nikolai coins covering a fez, and gold talisman brooches.


Special offer: Buy the book plus Issue 28 for only £29.95

Nogai wedding yurt with a dowry of camels. The style of felt applique work covering the door and the windows is found to this day further east in the Nogais' original homelands in Kazakhstan and Mongolia

Photographs: Russian Ethnographic Museum, St Petersburg / Hessenhuis, Antwerp. All rights reserved

Related books:

Nomads in Anatolia

Tattooed Mountain Women and Spoon Boxes of Daghestan

Krygyzstan

The Turkic Speaking Peoples

 

 


Related articles:

Cornucopia 30
Josephine Powell

Cornucopia 31
The Turks of China

Cornucopia 33
How the Kirghiz came to Van

Cornucopia 36
Sir Percy Sykes in Turkestan

Connoisseur

Cavalcade of colour

The paintings of Fausto Zonaro
Philip Mansel on the Ottoman court painter Fausto Zonaro, whose work is commemorated in a landmark biography published this year to coincide with a major exhibitionof his work in Istanbul.

 

Zonaro's 1896 canvas of the Ertugrul cavalry parade first brought him to the attention of the Sultan

Order the book:
Ottoman Court Painter Fausto Zonaro

 

Read Philip Mansel's article in full and order online

 

Hidden Treasures
Important blue and white in Istanbul's Ibrahim Pasha Palace (Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art)
by John Carswell

In an exhibition of art from the vaults of the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art in Istanbul, John Carswell discovers the first blue and white porcelain ever recorded in Europe.

The Chinese porcelain pieces exhibited for the first time were preserved in an Ottoman soup kitchen in the Balkans for 450 years. The swirling phoenixes are 14th century and the first blue and white ever recorded in Europe

John Carswell's book Chinese Porcelain Around the World is excerpted in
Cornucopia 25

The book itself is available from the Cornucopia Online Bookshop

All things pale and beautiful

Ephemera
A solo exhibition of the photographs of Barbara and Zafer Baran at the Blue Gallery, London

Each of these delicately tinted, large-scale photographic works - is roughly a metre square.

Cornucopia 25: Zafer Baran's abstract images were the subject of the cover story of Cornucopia's twenty-fifth issue in 2002.

For further information about the Barans' work visit their website, www.zb-baran.co.uk, and to contact the artist themselves, write to mail@zb-baran.co.uk

Black Sea

Peak performance
A 24-page celebration of Turkey's alpine Black Sea mountains by Ali Özgü Caneri and Kate Clow
Photographs: Kate Clow

Turkey’s Kaçkar Mountains, a daunting extension of the Caucasus high above the Black Sea, are only for the intrepid. Ali Özgü Caneri and Kate Clow took advantage of the short trekking season to scale two of the saw-edged summits.

 

 

An enterprising villager has erected this drinking fountain beside the newly bulldozed dirt road between the villages of Yaylalar (in the background) and Kara Molla. Water gushes into a carved wooden bowl.

Hiking and trekking guides by Kate Clow
Kackar


The Lycian Way

St Paul Trail

 

Trekking companies:

kackarmountains.com

middleearthtravel.com

For much of the year the Kackars are enveloped in mist, which descends on trekkers at the stone bridge at Davili Yaylasi. The bridge takes most of the traffic up to higher pastures. Many of the valleys retain vestiges of such fine stonework

Georgia on my mind
Text and photographs by Min Hogg

Turkey’s northeastern neighbour, Georgia, is a fairy tale country with a hard edge, and its entrancing landscape of isolated hilltop cathedrals and medieval monasteries just demands to be explored. Min Hog, founding editor of World of Interiors, tells the story of her visit in words and pictures.

 

The citadel of Ananuri, one of the many poweful feudal strongholds built in Georgia's Caucasus Mountains in the 16th and 17th centuries.

 

A bride at the hilltop church of Jvari, above Mtskheta, ancient capital of Georgia.

 

Trotsky on Prinkipo
By Norman Stone
Photographs from the David King Collection, London

Exiled by Stalin in 1929, Trotsky went to live on the Princes Islands near Istanbul. For four years he fished, wrote and developed the doctrine of Trotskyism. These remarkable photographs from the David King Collection show a quiet, ordered existence. Norman Stone uncovers the plotting that lay behind it

 

Dome from dome
Inside the Russian churches of Karaköy
by Owen Matthews with photographs by Simon Wheeler

Built as way-stations for Orthodox pilgrims on their way to the Holy Land or Mount Athos, the rooftop Russian churches of Karakoy are a forgotten corner of the motherland in the heart of Istanbul.

 
 

 

Cookery

Golden opportunity
Text, recipes and photographs by Berrin Torolsan

Carrots have a colourful past and the gift of making us see in the dark, but there is more to them than meets the eye.

Carrots, I confess, never seemed wildly exciting to me. There were always there - so you never had a chance to miss them - but they weren't on a par with aubergines, say, or artichokes. I'm sure I am not alone. Cookery writers rarely dwell on them. Yet the more I learn about carrots, the more fascinating they become...

 

Recipes in this issue:

Havuç Çorbasi
Carrot Soup

Havuç Püresi
Carrot Purée

Havuç Tava
Crispy Fritters with Hazelnut Tarator Sauce

Havuç Tursusu
Pickled Carrot

Havuç Salatasi
Salad of Grated Carrots

Havuçlu Kek
Carrot and Walnut Cake

Havuç Helvasi
Carrot Sweetmeat

For a complete list of Berrin Torolsan's cookery stories in Cornucopia, see our cookery index. Selected recipes are also available online: menus.

Also in this issue Kevin Gould assesses the merits of Raki, Ouzo and Pernod.
And see Cornucopia 38 for the Great Cornucopia Raki tasting

Charles Perry finds a 685-year-old cookery book in Bursa.
A Baghdad Cookery Book

Trade Secrets

Love's labour
The art of filigree
by Berrin Torolsan

As every Turkish girl will tell you, a bride's best friend is a telkari, or filigree, amulet. Berrin Torolsan vists the last place in the country where they are made.

 

Book reviews

By Maureen Freely, Antony Wynn, David Barchard and Venetia Porter

Nazim Hikmet: where passion meets politics; Monica Whitlock: the need to heed the Muslim message; Godfrey Goodwin: memoirs of a gentleman scholar; Clive Smith: high drama in sixteenth-century Yemen


 

Nazim Hikmet:
Beyond the Walls, selected poems

Beyond the Oxus: the Central Asians, by Monica Whitlock

Life's Episodes by Godfrey Goodwin

Lighning Over Yemen: A History of the Ottman Campaign 1569-71
intro by Clive Smith


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Regular Features:

Book reviews

Connoisseur Diary

Private View by Andrew Finkel

Village Voices by Azize Ethem

Restaurant Reviews

Shopping, Travel & Property and Hotel Directories

 

Published 2003

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