Cornucopia 32 Highlights: the connoisseurs' guide to istanbul

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	ONCE A DECADE WE CELEBRATE ISTANBUL. Explore the metropolis in all its glory with area-by-area commentary on Istanbul's palaces and pavilions, mosques and markets, shops and shrines, waterways and watering holes, plus feature articles on the city past and present by leading historians, journalists and writers. Photographs by Jürgen Frank The Articles The new Istanbul: Crossroads of the world, by Andrew Finkel Going shopping: the spend of history, by Elizabeth Meath Baker After Crimea: A metropolis is born, by David Barchard Ottoman renaissance: The Conqueror’s dream, by Heath W Lowry Byzantium: Mystery and imagination, by Robert Ousterhout The Guide THE OLD CITY Sultanahmet, the Bazaars, the Golden Horn Andrew Finkel, Elizabeth Meath Baker, Owen Matthews, Robert Ousterhout and Godfrey Goodwin THE NEW CITY Beyoglu, Çukurcuma, Nisantasi Maureen Freely, Elizabeth Meath Baker and Suna Erdem THE BOSPHORUS Patricia Daunt, Claire Karaz and John Carswell THE PRINCES ISLANDS Owen Matthews RESTAURANTS Andrew Finkel, Hettie Judah and Anastasia Ashman Regular Features Book Reviews, by Norman Stone, Antony Wynn and David Barchard Cookery: Fish from the Bosphorus, by Berrin Torolsan Village Voices, by Azize Ethem Istanbul Diary: Jazz Notes, by Tony Barrell THE ISSUE INCLUDES A 4-PAGE PULL OUT PANORAMA OF ISTANBUL IN 1850 Cover: The domes of Sultanahmet, by Jürgen Frank	CORNUCOPIA Issue 32, 2004 Price: £60 (US$120) Due to unprecedented demand, Cornucopia Issue 32, the Connoisseur's Guide to Istanbul, is now available only to subscribers. Limited stocks are still available on a first-come first-served basis. Subscriptions may be ordered concurrently. ADD ISSUE 32 TO BASKET SUBSCRIBE Back issue highlights: Volume 1 No 1 No 2 No 3 No 4 No 5 No 6 Volume 2 No 7 No 8 No 9 No 10 No 11 No 12 Volume 3 No 13 No 14 No 15 No 16 No 17 No 18 Volume 4 No 19 No 20 No 21 No 22 No 23 No 24 Volume 5 No 25 No 26 No 27 No 28 No 29 No 30 No 31 No 32 ISTANBUL ISSUE Special Edition Volume 6 No 33 No 34 No 35 No 36 No 37 No 38 ADD ISSUE 32 TO BASKET COMPLETE BACK ISSUE MENU
	THE CONNOISSEUR'S GUIDE: THE OLD CITY
		THE OLD CITY I SULTANAHMET WALKING THE GOLDEN MILE This is the starting point for any visitor, the very heart of two great empires. Andrew Finkel explores a world of beauty and grandeur dusting itself down for a third millennium Introduction by Andrew Finkel The Mosque of Sultan Ahmet I known as the Blue Mosque to the rest of the world was completed in 1616 and shares pride of place with the other monumental dome on the Istanbul skyline, the Byzantine cathedral basilica of Ayasofya. The district in the shadow of these two buildings, separated not by great distance but by over a thousand years of history, is the obvious starting point on most visitors’ agendas. What t o see: Ayasofya - Hippodrome - Topkapi Palace - Archaeological Museum - Sokollu Mehmet Pasha Mosque - Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art Where to shop: At the Arasta Bazaar Photograph: The Intercession, by Jürgen Frank	WHO TOOK PART? Andrew Finkel David Barchard Heath W Lowry Robert Ousterhout Owen Matthews Elizabeth Meath Baker Maureen Freely Additional contributions by Hettie Judah Godfrey Goodwin John Carswell Anastasia Ashman Izzy Finkel Suna Erdem Claire Karaz PHOTOGRAPHS Jürgen Frank You might also enjoy Cornucopia 4, the Absolute Guide to Istanbul
		THE OLD CITY II THE BAZAARS SILVER, SAFFRON AND MELTING-POTS Istanbul’s bazaars are vast cities in themselves. Cornucopia brings you three of the best: the Grand Bazaar of Mehmet the Conqueror, the aromatic Spice Bazaar and the gritty metalworkers’ market across the Golden Horn The Grand Bazaar: This labyrinthine landmark is a world of eccentric experts and raffish raconteurs. Elizabeth Meath Baker guides you round. Contributions by Andrew Finkel and Isabel Finkel The Egyptian Spice Bazaar is a real treat for the senses. Use this handy shopping list to find the essential buys Persembe Pazari: In Istanbul, a city filled with objects of desire, none of the bazaars comes as close to being a paradise of male shopping as the Perþembe Pazarð. By Owen Matthews Photograph: meerschaum pipe, by Jürgen Frank Click image for highlights of Old City II
		THE OLD CITY III THE GOLDEN HORN A STROLL WITH THE MASTER Once it was the hub of commercial life, its shores lined with bustling quays and the biggest concentration of mosques, churches and synagogues in the city. Now the tide has turned on this famous Bosphorus inlet, and it has become a backwater. Owen Matthews wanders around the Golden Horn’s heady past with John Freely, the man who made strolling through the city a fine art What see: Robert Ousterhout et al on Christian and Muslim monuments Plus: The Rahmi Koç Museum - a Big Man's Toybox Photograph: gravestones in Eyüp, by Jürgen Frank
	THE CONNOISSEUR'S GUIDE: THE NEW CITY
		BOULEVARDS OF DREAMS Beyoglu is Istanbul’s Latin Quarter. Built by European bankers, diplomats and merchants in the nineteenth century, it has now been recolonised by a new tribe dedicated to urban pleasures. Its imposing embassies and crumbling palazzos make it the ideal setting for the arts, and for a club-and-café scene that never sleeps. Beyo€lu’s labyrinthine streets spill down the hill to Çukurcuma, where bargain hunters stalk antiques. At one end of Beyo€lu is the medieval Galata Tower; at the other is Taksim Square and the monument to the new Republic which marks the start of modern Istanbul. Beyond is Nsantasi, the super-smart district for fashion, design and expense-account lunches THE NEW CITY I BEYOGLU BOHEMIA AT ITS BEST As an impressionable child in the Sixties, Maureen Freely encountered a cast of colourful characters who enriched Istanbul’s Left Bank Photograph: Tünel Square, by Jürgen Frank
		THE NEW CITY II CUKURCUMA COLLECTORS' CORNER Elizabeth Meath Baker introduces a round-up of the best places to forage in Beyoglu’s antiques district Photograph: A la Turca, by Jürgen Frank
		THE NEW CITY III NISANTASI FOR SEEKERS OF CHJC This is unquestionably the smartest part of town, where beautiful people browse for designer clothes and hungry shoppers can lunch in style Photograph: Hakan Yildirim, fashion designer, by Jürgen Frank Browse the full Nistantasi shopping story online
	THE CONNOISSEUR'S GUIDE: THE BOSPHORUS
		THE BOSPHORUS ALONG THE WATERFRONT The strait that divides Istanbul is a cool antidote to the hustle and bustle of the city. It is also a potent channel of myth and history and a destructive force as well as a lifeline, says Patricia Daunt Photograph: The Bosphorus at Istinye, by Jürgen Frank
		THE BOSPHORUS PALACES OF THE LAST SULTANS Istanbul boasts no fewer than four of Europe’s finest nineteenth-century palaces. Philip Mansel provides a who’s who of the colourful sultans who commissioned them Photograph: Beylerbeyi Palace, by Jürgen Frank
	THE CONNOISSEUR'S GUIDE: THE PRINCES ISLANDS
		THE PRINCES ISLANDS PALACES OF THE LAST SULTANS Owen Matthews succumbs to the romance of the Princes Isles, where cars are banned and you can relax in a genteel nineteenth-century time warp Photograph: Büyükada, by Jürgen Frank
	PLUS
	COOKERY: FISH FROM THE BOSPHORUS, by Berrin Torolsan THE ISTANBUL JAZZ FESTIVAL, a review by Tony Barrell VILLAGE VOICES, by Azize Ethem BOOKS: Reviews by Norman Stone, Antony Wynn and David Barchard SUBSCRIBE ONLINE ADD ISSUE 32 TO BASKET