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Cover story
The Great Textile Takeover

Suddenly Istanbul is ablaze with historic textiles, from coats of the Silk Road to fifteenth-century mosque carpets. For the first time in the thirty years since it was set up ICOC, the three-yearly International Conference on Oriental Carpets which always draws a knowledgeable crowd, is being held in Istanbul. Its presence in April (2007) has acted as a catalyst for a flurry of exhibitions, some of them permanent, others fleeting...

Central Asian Ikats

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Also in this issue:

Transylvanian Treasures:
Antique Ottoman Rugs in Transylvania
Study tours
www.transylvanianrugs.com

Silks for the Sultans:
Imperial kaftans were presented in kaleidoscopic patchworks of silk that were works of art in their own right

An unerring eye for beauty:
The carpet world is full of colourful characters, but none more so than the late Mustafa Kinaci, an influential and charismatic dealer

Cushions of cut velvet:
Catmalar: The finishing touches for palatial divans
Also see:
www.yastikbyrifatozbek.com

Pagan Power:
Bold and beautiful embroideries from the Caucasus
Also see:
Kaitag by Robert Chenciner

Anatolia's classic masterpieces

The Directorate of Pious Foundations (Vakiflar), who found themselves the bemused heirs to 80% of historic Istanbul, gave little regard to their hoard of mosque rugs until recently.
Now they have done them proud, establishing two new museums - one for carpets in the restored soup kitchen of Ayasofya; the other for kilims in Sultanahmet's imperial pavillion

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Also recommended:

Colossal Carpets: Daniel Shaffer on the carpets of Istanbul's Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art.
Cornucopia 39

Josephine Powell: An American Nomad
Anatolian kilims and flatweaves
Cornucopia 30
Recommended book:
Nomads in Anatolia by Harald Boehmer with Josephine Powell and Serife Atlihan

The Ardabil Carpet at the V&A Museum
Cornucopia 36

Profile

Lesley Blanch: My Life on the Wilder Shores
By Philip Mansel

She has long lived in France, but Turkey has inspired 'pangs of longing' since her first visit in 1946. The celebrated author of 'The Wilder Shores of Love' and 'The Sabres of Paradise' now almost 103 years old, talks to Philip Mansel about a life of adventure and the landscape of the heart

 

Lesley Blanch died in May 2007

Philip Mansel is the author of
Constantinople: City of the World's Desire
and Dressed to Rule: Royal and Court Costume from Louis XIV to Elizabeth II

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Books by Lesley Blanch

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Edirne The Forgotten City
By Andrew and Caroline Finkel
Photographs by Simon Wheeler

Once the jewel in the Ottoman crown, Edirne is now a somnolent backwater on the borders of Greece and Bulgaria. Caroline and Andrew Finkel catch glimpses of it glorious past.

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Also recommended:
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Bursa: City of the Sultans: By Heath Lowry and John Carswell
Cornucopia 38

Edirne's forgotten tiles, by John Carswell
Cornucopia 19

Exhibition

The Glories of Genghis
By Michael Franses

The Mongols swept into Istanbul this winter, in the wake of Picasso and Rodin. The ravishing culture of the Turkic steppes was the subject of the latest stunning exhibition at the Sakip Sabanci Museum. In this review, Michael Franses shows that the Mongols were men of taste as well as conquest.

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Also recommended:
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Turks 600 - 1600
The RA show reviewed by John Carswell
Cornucopia 33

The Taurus Mountains

Nomad's Land
By Dux Schneider

The travel wrtiter Dux Schneider explored Turkey in the 1970s, in the days before tourism. In particular he roamed the remote Bolkar Mountains to write, in 1978, a classic book, Bolkar: Travels with a Donkey in the Taurus Mountains. It has now been published in English for the first time. In the following extracts Schneider describdan Yaylasies his experiences with the Yuruk nomads.

 

Top: A village near Karayusuklu, high in the Bilkar Mountains

 

 

Below: Yuruk women skin a lamb in Meydan Yaylasi

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Order the book:

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Bokkar Travels in the Taurus Mountains with a Donkey.
By Dux Schneider

Also recommended:

The Carvan Moves On
by Irfan Orga

Nomads in Anatolia
by Harald Boehmer

Cookery

Hot Pots

Served at sixteenth-century Ottoman feasts, the biscuit known as seker gurabiye is probably the forerunner of today's classic Turkish shortbread. un kurabiyesi. It is also the mother of a whole array of delicious descendants, its sheer simplicity the key to its versatility.

Text and photographs by Berrin Torolsan

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For a complete list of Berrin Torolsan's cookery stories in Cornucopia, see our cookery index.
Selected recipes are also available online:
menus.

Past and Pleasant

A new gem every day
The second in a new series of travel articles by Patricia Daunt

From Adana to Diyarbakir

Continuing her series of drives across Anatolia, Patricia Daunt explores the historic southeast. Along the way she discovers a sixteen-arched Roman bridge and a hotel that used to be a soap factory.

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More remarkable travel writing in Cornucopia:

Rose Baring and Barnaby Rogerson on sailing around Kekova and Olympia
Cornucopia 10

John Ashe on Beysehir, John Julius Norwich on Aphrodisias
Cornucopia 11

Kate Clow on walks around Lake Egirdir
Cornucopia 17

Martyn Rix on the Isparta's rose harvest
Cornucopia 23

Caroline Finkel on walking in the high Taurus
Cornucopia 33

Patricia Daunt on driving from Ankara to Antalya
Cornucopia 36

Connoisseur

Venise et l'Orient

The first major exhibition to explore the exchange of ideas between Venice and her Islamic neighbours opened in Paris late last year (2006) and has now moved to the Met. Glass textiles and metalwork are all included.

 

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Regular Features:

Restaurant Reviews

by Andrew Finkel and Christopher Ryan


Book reviews

Village Voices by Azize Ethem

Shopping, Travel, Property
& Hotel Directories

Cornucopia Issue 37: A Riot