The absolute guide to Istanbul A unique companion to Istanbul Area-by-area intelligence on Istanbul restaurants, hotels, museums and out-of-the-way places for travellers and residents alike.
Introduction by James Wilde Edited by John Scott, Susana Raby, Tony Barrel Photographs by John Brunton. Text by Andrew Finkel, Rose Baring, Christopher Trillo et al.
Also included: travel intelligence, hotels, books and personal views
Related magazine Cornucopia 32 The Connoisseur's Guide to Istanbul
Beyoglu The European quarter
Home for centuries to diplomats, whores and clerics, Beyoglu was the elegant centre of the old cosmopolitan Istanbul. Today it thrives as Turkey's answer to Soho - arty, tarty and smart by turns, and the place for a wild night out.
The Old City Bazaars and grand mosques
The grandeur of the city's oldest quarter has a grainier side. Behind the Topkapi Palace, Ayasofya and other buildings of world importance, the bazaars and the teeming streets that lead to them contain all manner of things to buy and restaurants to feast in.
A ramshackle backwater of the city, the Golden Horn offers an unglamorous first impression. But its mysterious back streets, pretty churches and mosques, sacred springs and ruined city walls make it fascinating walking country.
In Fatih, one of the largest street markets in the world, serves the city's most traditional neighbourhood.
Right: Exchanging the weekly gossip
The Lower Bosphorus Downtown and out of town
On the lower shores of these magnificent straits, glamorous upbeat city life carries on alongside a peaceful older world of cafes, parks and palaces
Sunday papers at the Malta Kosku in Yildiz Park
The Upper Bosphorus The quieter reaches
To escape the clamour of the city Istanbul heads upstream to its coastal playground - for the leisurely rhythm of waterside villages, the smart summer nightclubs, the forested hinterland and, beyond the forests, the golden sands of the Black Sea
Nisantasi Fashion and design
Welcome to the smarter side of town. In Nisantasi you can shop till you drop - then dine out where the elite meet to eat. Here you will find haute couture, stylish shoes, opulent jewellery and fabulous furniture - both ancient and modern
The ornate miniature 19th-century palace of Ihlamur Kasri, near Nisantasi
In 1928 David Talbot Rice, gentleman and scholar, and his new bride Tamara set off from Oxford to excavate the Great Palace of Byzantium. Tamara, an author of books on Seljuks and Scythians, talked to Anthony Bryer for this profile of the couple and their life together
Cookery
The taste of an eastern summer Cooking with marrows Text and photographs by Berrin Torolsan
Summery herbs transform the versatile marrow into light, succulent dishes. Berrin Torolsan uses the fruit and the flower in classic Turkish recipes:
Taratorlu Kabak Stewed Courgettes with Nut Sauce
Kabak Imam Bayildi Courgettes in Olive Oil
Kabak Kizartmasi Courgette Fritters
Kabak Boregi Courgette Pie
Mücver Courgettes with Egg and Cheese
Kabak Dolmasi Stuffed Courgettes
Kabak Kalyesi Courgette Stew
Kabak Çiçegi Dolmasi Stuffed Marrow Flowers
Cookery features and recipes in every issue of Cornucopia.
Book reviews by Tim Stanley, David Barchard and Nicholas Haslam
Also in this issue:
The Inimitable Rosie Baldwin, by Omer Koc
Tall, White and Handsome, the Becher's serene apartment overlooking the Bosphorus. Text y Jeremy James with photographs by Fritz von der Schulenburg
Exhibitions: Turkish art in Venice, Designer rugs in Konya, Tulip mania, the London Sales, oriental carpets in Germany, Ottoman embroidery at Spink and antiquities in St Petersburg.
