- What’s On
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In Cornucopia 56, Kevin Gould writes:
Paşaeli Çalkarası Blush 2016 (Aegean) 13.5%
Kaynaklar vineyard, Buca, Izmir
Lovely seahorse label, a gorgeous wine; not pushed, but an entirely charming expression of this grape that starts by humming quietly and ends melodically with your favourite summer-at-the-seaside soundtrack. Great.
Paşaeli Yapıncak 2016 (Thrace) 12.5%
Pretty fresias on the nose. Crisp and tense structure, cool and poised on the palate. Very good: uncomplicated but with enough complexity to demand further tasting. Begs to be drunk with spaghetti alle vongole.
Paşaeli Wines – Izmir, Turkey
Seyit Karağözoğlu founded this family-owned estate in 2000, and after much research found two ideal sites in Kaynaklar, Izmir, and Hoşköy, Tekirdağ, with the first vines planted in 2002. The former is deemed to be suited to Bordeaux varieties, the latter to native grapes, which have existed in the region for centuries. It is these indigenous varieties of Anatolia and Thrace that Seyit most wants to protect, and Red Squirrel heartily agree because they make brilliant wines. These wines from Paşaeli prove that Turkish wine need not just be the next curiosity, but a genuine challenger to wines from more established origins.
According to Julia Harding, on the Jancis Robinson website (Paşaeli's Rare Turkish Treasures – Dec 5, 2017), Çalkarası Blush is Very pretty pale orangey pink, gleaming. A good deal paler than the Calkarasi rosé. Sweet fruit notes of those orange-coloured Victoria plums that smell sweeter than they taste plus a slight peppery note. Full and fruity on the palate though I think it is dry. Very good. Firm dry texture. Serious rosé even though you might not expect it from a wine with 'Blush' on the label. Seyit made two Yapıncaks to show 'that there can be different styles of Yapıncak wines just like there can be many many different Chardonnay wines in Burgundy'. Harding suggests the Şarköy Yapıncak (offered by Cornucopia) 'may be the best vintage of this wine so far': A little darker than the Sofuköy version – very pale gold. More intense and citrus-toned on both the nose and palate but still with a mineral/chalky character that I think is the site not the variety. It still has the same sour freshness of the variety but here there is more citrus and just-ripe apricot, and still with the lightly grainy texture of pears. Really long.
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