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Caferağa Mh. Moda Caddesi No. 265, Kadıköy, Istanbul

Take a taxi or dolmuş from Kadıköy to the Moda İskelesi (sadly boats no longer call). The tram comes the long way round, but is fun. Say that you are going to the Moda İskelesi.

One of Istanbul’s oldest meyhanes was started by the Greek chef Koço. The meze and fish are wonderful – try çiroz (dried mackerel) or lakerda (bonito in brine) as you look out over Moda boat station towards the Fenerbahçe lighthouse and the Princes Islands.

Below the restaurant is an old Orthodox shrine marking a sacred spring, where you can light a candle and say a prayer.

Cibalikapı Balıkçısı is a good fish restaurant nearby and Moda Meyhanesi is another decent meyhane nearby, serving offal.

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