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Rüstem Paşa Mh., Kalçin Sokak 15, Istanbul, Turkey

By tram or boat to Eminönü

Hamdi, outside the Spice Bazaar, introduced Istanbul to the spicy flavour of southeastern kebabs, along with salads dressed with sour pomegranate molasses and flat breads that balloon in the oven. Try the meatballs with pistachio and a buttery crepe called katmer for dessert. Make sure to get a table by the windows to take full advantage of the jaw-dropping view. The glass-walled top floor is usually reservation-only, but that can sometimes be circumvented by a quick phone call from outside the front door.

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Issue 59, June 2019 Behind Closed Doors
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