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The waterside square in Kuzguncuk. Tea is served at impromptu pop-up tables by the Çınaraltı Cafe. On the right is the legendary İsmet Baba meyhane and the FIrst Bosphorus Bridge (photo: Clive Crook)
Waterside fish restaurant – last of a dying breed – in a pretty, gently bohemian village on the Asian shore. Rakı at sunset in good company. Try to get a table in the main room, ideally by a window – there are no outdoor tables. A place for potato börek and meze as much as for fish. The best time to go is early drinks time, where you just be abel to get that precious window seat. Families tend to get shuffled into the small room.
Kuzguncuk is ‘one of the most picturesque neighbourhoods on the Asian side… The most famous restaurant here is İsmet Baba, balanced on stilts above the Bosphorus shore, which has served the same mix of fish and meze for over 60 years’ – Andrew Finkel, Cornucopia 52
Contributions by Andrew Finkel, Harriet Rix, Tim Cornwell et al. Photographs by Monica Fritz, Brian McKee, Fritz von der Schulenburg
Issue 66, December 2023
Turkey’s Centenary Issue
Deniz Kizi Eftalya, chanteuse
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