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The Gregorian Armenian Surp Takavor Church stands on a picturesque square, which contains two beautifully carved 19th-century tombs. The church gates are manned by a friendly caretaker who was at school with the grandchildren of the owner of the large 1886 tomb to the left of the entrance. The family have now migrated to America and many others have followed. Nevertheless, the church seems to be expanding (the new modern section is rather hideous) and the special service at the time of the full moon is extremely popular. Even in the daylight, there is much of interest – the blue sky with fluffy clouds in the antechapel, and the gold-an-ivory head of John the Baptist on a platter.
Contributions by Andrew Finkel, Harriet Rix, Tim Cornwell et al. Photographs by Monica Fritz, Brian McKee, Fritz von der Schulenburg
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