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Beşiktaş is where the Bosphorus begins, a now fashionable former working-class town, home to one of the best naval museums in the world, reviewed in Cornucopia 50. The great Ottoman admiral Barbarossa’s 16th-century mausoleum presides over the seaside square. Sheltered from the north wind, the shore here has always been a good mooring place. Today it is a lively area of shops, cafés and restaurants.
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