In the late 1990s the Mısır Apartments, a once-depressing apartment block earmarked for development, morphed into the home of Istanbul’s most established and boldest smart contemporary art galleries. The Nesrin Esirtgen Collection (5th floor), Galeri Nev, Pi Artworks (both 4th floor) and the Zilberman are all here. Combine a visit with ARTER, the Koç centre for Contemporary Art further along the street. SALTGalata, across the road, is due to reopen later in 2017. A swanky ‘skyroof’ restaurant, 360, occupies the top floor. Sadly, the House Café downstairs has been another victim of the authorities’ killing off of Turkey’s once-flourishing upmarket tourism industry.