In Tophane, Bursa’s old citadel, Bursa Kebabçısı is perfectly placed in the square by the tombs, in an old wooden house rescued by Ibrahim Ünal Avsar, a maths teacher, who offers good Iskender kebab, grilled kofte on pide and delicious puddings: milky kadayıf, dried figs stuffed with walnuts (incir tatlısı), pumpkin pudding (kabak tatlısı). Order a mix and add a dollop of cream (kaymak). The grapejuice (sıra) and coffee cannot be bettered. If the garden is full, step upstairs for an even better view.