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İsmet Baba

Çarşı Cad No 1, Kuzguncuk, Üsküdar, Istanbul

From the European shore, take the boat to Üsküdar, then taxi, bus or minibus 8 mins to the traffic lights in Kuzguncuk.

Waterside fish restaurant – last of a dying breed – in a pretty, gently bohemian village on the Asian shore. Rakı at sunset in good company. Try to get a table in the main room, ideally by a window – there are no outdoor tables. A place for potato börek and meze as much as for fish. The best time to go is early drinks time, where you just be abel to get that precious window seat. Families tend to get shuffled into the small room.

Kuzguncuk is ‘one of the most picturesque neighbourhoods on the Asian side… The most famous restaurant here is İsmet Baba, balanced on stilts above the Bosphorus shore, which has served the same mix of fish and meze for over 60 years’ – Andrew Finkel, Cornucopia 52

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