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One of Istanbul’s oldest meyhanes was started by the Greek chef Koço. The meze and fish are wonderful – try çiroz (dried mackerel) or lakerda (bonito in brine) as you look out over Moda boat station towards the Fenerbahçe lighthouse and the Princes Islands.
Below the restaurant is an old Orthodox shrine marking a sacred spring, where you can light a candle and say a prayer.
Cibalikapı Balıkçısı is a good fish restaurant nearby and Moda Meyhanesi is another decent meyhane nearby, serving offal.
Contributions by Andrew Finkel, Harriet Rix, Tim Cornwell et al. Photographs by Monica Fritz, Brian McKee, Fritz von der Schulenburg
Issue 66, December 2023
Turkey’s Centenary Issue
Deniz Kizi Eftalya, chanteuse
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