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Su muhallebisi with plain dondurma (ice cream) with the tacky texture of orchid root, a little icing sugar (şeker), and a good dosing of rose water (bol gül suyu) – one of those little Istanbul treats. Zeynel's version is made with milk, for a slightly different version, see <a href="http://www.cornucopia.net/magazine/issues/the-birth-of-art/">Issue 26</a>.
Established by a Bosnian family in 1925 and now in its third generation, this chain is arguably Istanbul’s best muhallebici (pudding shop) – besides breakfasts, sandwiches, salads and the classic chicken and rice, as the name suggests it has a large selection of desserts. The kazandibi (chicken-breast pudding), and su muhallebisi, served with rose water, icing sugar and ice cream (dondurma), are recommended. It has a small alcove at the entrance with outdoor seating across Akkavak Sokağı from the park. This is the inner heart of Nişantaşı, and as a source of between-meal treats it very slightly made up for the demise of the Görgülü Pastanesi, another classic.
Galata Muhallebicisi is another popular muhallebicisi in the neighbourhood.
To learn more about making your own milk puddings, read Berrin Torolsan’s cookery article ‘The Milky Way’ in Issue 26.
Issue 67, December 2024
Beauty in the Wilderness
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