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Fresh bread sticks (‘krikrak’)
Historic bakers selling bread fresh out of the oven since 1923. There’s also krikrak (bread sticks) and cakes available. They will even make you a sandwich.
The Horn of Plenty
It is a joy to explore. New universities, a new museum, and a growing band of new aficionados who have invested modest means in old houses, have created a wonderful sense of optimism. But the ancient waterfront is in the eye of the storm, with many quarters due to be bulldozed, and the threat of a hideous new marina. Enjoy it while you can.
A stunning 42 pages exploring the architecture and history of old Istanbul, from churches and workshops to shrines, mosques and museums. Fritz von der Schulenburg photographs the Mirrored Pavilion, our cover story, and Robert Ousterhout raises concerns about the future of the ancient land walls.
Issue 66, December 2023
Turkey’s Centenary Issue
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