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Mezquita, Córdoba

The train from Madrid to Granada takes around 4hr 30min. Buses are more frequent and cheaper. Granada airport, 12km from the centre, has international flghts in the summer. Málaga airport is 125km southwestt, Seville 250 km west.


Built under the Umayyad dynasty between AD600 and 961 on the site of a Visigothic church, the Mezquita is an extraordinary achievement. Its 856 colourful columns of jasper, granite, marble and onyx also benefitted from masonry left over from a temple on the sight of what had been a thriving Roman city. With 11 aisles and 12 bays it resembles the great mosque of Damascus. Bizarrely, in 1523, into this harmonious space, a Western-style cathedral nave was inserted on the orders of Emperor Charles V, who regretted the decision when he saw it, saying: “You have built here what you or anyone might have built anywhere else, but you have destroyed what was unique in the world.”


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Issue 66, December 2023 Turkey’s Centenary Issue
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