Open up a world of Turkish inspiration with a Cornucopia digital subscription

Buy or gift a stand-alone digital subscription and get unlimited access to dozens of back issues for just £18.99 / $18.99 a year.

Please register at www.exacteditions.com/digital/cornucopia with your subscriber account number or contact subscriptions@cornucopia.net

Buy a digital subscription Go to the Digital Edition
Find it

Zal Mahmud Pasha Camii

By boat to Eyüp


It is not certain whether this is another of Sinan’s worlks, but Zal Mahmud Pash külliye (mosque complex), which has undergone extensive renovation, is considered one of the finest examples to be built for an Ottoman vizier. Zal Mahmud Pasha is credited in having carried out the the orders of Kanuni Sultan Süleyman to strangle his son heir, Crown Prince Mustafa, for which he was rewarded. He is buried here along with his wife: they died at the same time of the same day in 1580.


Cornucopia 4

The Golden Horn


The great 19th-century warehouses and factories along the Golden Horn, as in other industrial ports, are being gradually converted to new uses. For all this the neighbourhoods along the Golden Horn remain among the least altered parts of the city. The scale is small, with low houses painted in washes of turquoise, amber and peeling grey. It is a little untidy, with dillapidated houses, chickens, scruffy children, plenty of washing hanging overhead, and appearing here and there, remains of the city walls and the Byzantine ruins of the Blachernae. This is the gentlest part of the city, where you can discover forgotten sacred springs and old beer houses. It is a bit like the Rome depicted in the sketches of eighteenth-century French artists, a mine of incalculably important antiquity that continues to gather silt.

More Reading
Good places to stay
Buy the latest issue
Or, browse the back issues here
Issue 66, December 2023 Turkey’s Centenary Issue
£ 15.00



If you like this, don't miss..
Cornucopia Digital Subscription

The Digital Edition

Cornucopia works in partnership with the digital publishing platform Exact Editions to offer individual and institutional subscribers unlimited access to a searchable archive of fascinating back issues and every newly published issue. The digital edition of Cornucopia is available cross-platform on web, iOS and Android and offers a comprehensive search function, allowing the title’s cultural content to be delved into at the touch of a button.

Digital Subscription: £18.99 / $18.99 (1 year)

Subscribe now