Rome’s eternal legacy

Don McCullin in Roman Anatolia

From Issue 65

Ancient roaming

Off the beaten track in Anatolia

Online article

Magical discoveries form the backcloth to Don McCullin’s new Roman Roads book, an exploration of western Anatolia’s Roman heritage. Here his companions on all three journeys, the author Barnaby Rogerson, who acted as diarist, and the photographer Monica Fritz, who arranged it all, recall the high points of their adventures

On the road again

From Issue 65

Roman Roads

From Issue 64

In their second Turkish adventure, the acclaimed photographer Don McCullin and the author-publisher Barnaby Rogerson travel south in pursuit of Roman treasures. Originally drawn by the lure of gorgeous goddesses in unsung museums, they discover moody Sardis, with its ruined temple to Artemis, explore Ephesus, with its magnificent library, marvel at the enchanted city of Aphrodisias, and finally reach the mountain fastness of Hadrian’s Sagalassos. Photographs: Don McCullin. Text: Barnaby Rogerson

Getting to know the Carians

Barnaby Rogerson reviews a magficent new volume on the historic region of Caria in Turkey's southwest

From Issue 63

Meet the Carians

From Issue 63

Troy Story 1: Lost and Found

From Issue 60

Overlooking the Dardanelles, a stark but stunning new museum opens a new chapter in the enduring story of Troy, next to Homer’s embattled city. With Troy, truth is ever elusive, but, as Barnaby Rogerson discovers, the experience is epic. Photographs by Don McCullin and Monica Fritz

The Oldest Temple on Earth?

Barnaby Rogerson marvels at the mysteries of Göbekli Tepe

From Issue 59

Six millennia before Stonehenge, the dawn of the agrarian revolution came to the now arid Anatolian steppe – and with it came Göbekli Tepe, perhaps the first place of worship built by man. With its T-shaped columns and menacing animal carvings, it is an unacknowledged wonder of the ancient world. But who built it? And what went on here? By Barnaby Rogerson

A walk like no other

A review of Tim Mitford’s landmark study East of Asia Minor: Rome’s Hidden Frontier

From Issue 57

Travelling Companion

From Issue 57

A review of Francis Russell’s 123 Places in Turkey

Rough Journeys: George Bean and Terence Mitford

From Issue 23

For more than thirty years Terence Mitford and George Bean painstakingly identified and recorded the forgotten ancient sites of Turkey’s Aegean and southern shores. Their contribution to the preservation of the country’s archaeological heritage is incalculable, their guidebooks are legendary, yet the men themselves are unsung. Barnaby Rogerson, in this homage to his heroes, uncovers an extraordinary pair: a gentle giant and a man of steel

The Best of Enemies

From Issue 43

Barnaby Rogerson on the undying rivalry of Ogier Ghiselin de Busbecq and Melchior Lorck

Must We Lose Our Temples of Travel?

From Issue 35

Cornucopia’s tribute to Istanbul’s endangered railway stations

Magical Mysteries

An Evil Eye

From Issue 47

Magical Mysteries

The Story of the Damascus Drum

From Issue 47

An Aegean Odyssey

From Issue 8

Stone Age Renaissance

From Issue 9

Lycian Shore: Mediterranean Travels

From Issue 10

‘There are not so many places left where magic reigns without interruption,’ wrote Freya Stark in The Lycian Shore, ‘and of all those I know, the coast of Lycia was the most magical.’ Barnaby Rogerson went with Rose Baring and four-month-old Molly in search of enchantment. Photographs by Faruk Akbas

The Elusive Dane

From Issue 43

Spirited impressions of Ottoman Istanbul in the 16th century from a mischievous Danish artist and an acerbic Flemish envoy.