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Caferağa Mh., Güneşli Bahçe Sokak, Kadıköy, Istanbul, Turkey

An ethnographic museum of eastern Anatolian cooking, with ingredients such as keş (brick-hard dried yoghurt), cardoons and wild chives. Çiya spreads over three locations on the same street at the far end of Kadıköy fish market. The best choices are stuffed meat pides and köfte kebabs with loquats. There’s a limited wine list.

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