People especially come to Yeniköy to buy biscuits and shortbread (un kurabiyesi) from this historic bakery, opened in 1817 and now at Köybaşı Caddesi 82, by the park with its mosque and church. Biscuits are either sweet (tatlı) or salty (tuzlu) and always sold in paper bags. The sensational börek is a meal in itself.

You can have tea here, or climb the stone steps of Kürkçü Faik Sokağı, a hundred yards downstream, to Yeniköy Kahve, whose vine-covered terrace looks out through the treetops to yalı roofs and the sea. For something even more low-key, and if it’s a nice day, take a couple of böreks to the park or have lunch-on-the-go while you sail on the motor to Beykoz on the other side.

If you want to make your own börek, Berrin Torolsan’s definitive list of the 10 best in Cornucopia 33 is essential reading.