Getting there

Very short-sightedly, the municipality no longer allow ferries to dock in the recently restored boat station, however a motor dolmuş does run a shuttle service every 20 minutes between Yeniköy and Beykoz. İstiniye is the nearest iskele for other boats, inlcuding the seabus’s morning and evening commuter service. The nearest metros are Daruşaffaka and Hacıosman. A bus also trundles up and down the coast road – many of them icy cool Mercedes buses, but avoid the Sunday gridlock

Eating

Aleko’s, next to the Iskele, is one of Istanbul’s last proper fish restaurants. The view is stunning. Next door is the smart little Circle Café, with a good café menu of bonfile, pizza and the like. For a quick snack, there is Emek, on the main road. And for a quick fish without the requiste rakı, there is Takanık. If fondue is what you crave, again Yeniköy, oddly enough, is the place for you. The village also has a superb, but tiny weekly market every Friday. We defy you to find a better cheese anywhere else in Istanbul. Michel Roux (senior) thought it was the best cheese he had ever.tasted.