The Çinili Cami (literally the Tiled Mosque) is miracle of a place, and for once beautifully restored, unlike the nearby Atik Valide, which has been so crudely repainted that it shouts down the wonderful architecture and the beauty of its superior tiles. Here the colours are strong but harmonious. Just below the mosque is a decent little neigbourhood hamam. The mosque was built by the powerful consort and queen mother Haseki Mâh-Peyker Kösem Valide Sultan (1590–1651).

In Cornucopia 52, a six-page feature delves into this beauty of a mosque, lavishly illustrated with photographs by Fritz von der Schulenburg.