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Rum Mehmed Pasha Mosque

Aziz Mahmut Hüdayi, Üsküdar, Istanbul

A dilapidated (although it was restored in 1953) but charming mosque in Üsküdar, located nearby to the Şemsi Pasha, Yeni Valide and Mihrimah Sultan mosques. Built in the 15th century soon after a conquest by a former Byzantine general, it has inescapably Byzantine brickwork, but the grandiose portico and absent courtyard of a Bursa mosque. At the back, in an atmospheric graveyard with an ancient olive, is the türbe. Inside, Rum Mehmed Pasha’s somewhat ghostly turban sits on top of the grave.

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Issue 59, June 2019 Behind Closed Doors
£ 12.00