Florence Nightingale’s Scutari, a richly varied quarter on the Asian shore with fine mosques and some lovely restaurants.
Üsküdar’s famous meydan has been a bit of a mess for the past few years thanks to the new metro works, but that will soon be over.
By boat from Eminönü, Kabataş or Beşiktaş is best, unless you want an excuse to take the First Bosphorus Bridge. Two of the best mosques are on the meydan, the Atik Valide Sultan Mosque is up the hill. A taxi would be in order.
Dolmuşes and buses hurtle up and down the Bosphorus. Jump on one for Üsküdar.
Kanaat in Üsküdar for a classic Istanbul lunch. And to Ismet Baba in Kuzguncuk for an old-fashioned meyhane.