City of Domes and Dames

Üsküdar

Üsküdar – its history shaped by three powerful queen mothers and a tireless English nurse – has surprises to offer behind its unprepossessing façade: dazzling mosques, villagey tranquillity and epic views…

The view from Üsküdar:

Seen from the heights of Üsküdar at sunset, the mouth of the Bosphorus is a giant arena. Topkapı Palace, with its many-chimneyed kitchens, occupies the centre ground, dipping down to the Golden Horn on the right, as a tanker sails in from the Sea of Marmara on the left, and a car ferry waits to cross from Üsküdar’s Harem docks to the Old City. Domes and minarets punctuate the skyline: from left, the Blue Mosque, Ayasofya, the Süleymaniye and the Fatih Mosque. Until now the Old City has preserved its silhouette, but modern towers beyond the Land Walls are crowding in.

With this view, Cornucopia 52 begins its tour of Üsküdar…

Other Highlights from Cornucopia 52
  • Earthly Delights: the Humble Potato

    The potato was a latecomer to Turkish cookery, but today it is hard to imagine life without it. The humble spud, the ultimate in comfort food, is endlessly versatile,and also comes packed with goodness. Berrin Torolsan serves up some favourite dishes

  • Seeing and Believing

    Lovely churches, a lively market, enticing ice cream, shady cafés… and they called this the land of the blind. Andrew Finkel introduces Kadıköy, and Harriet Rix mooches around the district of Moda. Photographs by Monica Fritz


  • Memories light the corners of my mind

    Maureen Freely goes ‘Bosphorising’ with her father, John Freely, in search of her treasured childhood in Istanbul. Could it be that it was all so simple then?


  • City Bosphorus: the European shore

    Turn your back on the Old City and make for the water. Andrew Finkel takes a drive along the Bosphorus’s lower shore: from the half-abandoned docks of Karaköy, past mammoth cruise ships and hangars for modern art, to the palaces of Beşiktaş and Ortaköy


  • Village Bosphorus: the European shore

    Andrew Finkel extols the charms of a trip up the western, European, shore of the Bosphorus, whether by water or by road

  • City Bosphorus: The Anatolian Shore

    Over 56 pages, we cross the Bosphorus to explore the lower reaches of the Asian shore. Sailing past the ruins of stately Haydarpaşa Station, we land at the busy Kadıköy docks, wander round Moda’s old cosmopolitan backwaters and head upstream to the sparkling hilltop mosques of Üsküdar



  • Village Bosphorus: The Anatolian Shore

    Continuing our tour of Bosphorus villages, we cross back to a more untamed Asian shore. Heading upstream again, we start in Beylerbeyi and Çengelköy, with their grand views of the Old City, and make for the fortress of Anadoluhisari, where the Bosphorus narrows and the yalis are at their most captivating. Our journey ends on the hilltop of Anadolukavağı, with the Black Sea in our sights

Good places to stay
Buy the issue
Issue 52, Spring 2015 Istanbul Unwrapped: Bosphorus Requiem
£12.00 / $16.74 / 63.30 TL
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