John Julius Norwich and Andrew Finkel on the threat to Istanbul’s city walls. We go inside Muharrem Nuri Birgi’s Üsküdar yalı, a veritable jewel on the Bosphorus shore, put William Allan’s ‘Slave Market’ on trial; discover the art of falconry; and meet the living legend Zaro Ağa, aged 157 – before taking a journey to Konya and sitting down to perfect pilavs
The Anastasian and Theodosian walls together protected the city for many years; but now this vast and beautiful network is under attack from within. Cornucopia investigates the dangers that threaten this important cultural icon and its surroundings.
The Çuruksulu Mehmet Pasha Yali once saw diplomatic service as the home of the ambassador Muharrem Nuri Birgi. Beautifully preserved, its restrained exterior and spacious interior evince the classical age of Ottoman style, and its clifftop position provides timeless views
Chris Farrard questions the motives behind William Allan’s famous Slave Market
During the Turkish quail-hunting season, man’s best friend is the sparrowhawk. Roger Upton describes how these redoubtable birds help to bring home the bacon
The fascination of Istanbul is enough to keep visitors and even the city’s more Westernised residents, from exploring the Asian interior of Central Anatolia, whose local capital, Konya, boasts a million residents and a daunting commitment to Muslim fundamentalism. But a night’s journey by train from Haydarpaşa brings one back to the very dawn of civilisation, and the experience is well worth the not inconsiderable effort of exploring.