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Issue 62, 2021

Travellers’ Tales

£12.00 / $15.53 / €14.26
($/€ approx)

  • · Eight weeks in Eighties Anatolia
  • · Central Asia, from steppe to snow to desert sands
  • · The quintessential Ottoman house – in the Balkans
  • · The dragoman who lifted the lid on the Topkapı
  • · Hoşaf – fruit poached to perfection
  • · Tributes to Suna Kıraç, founder of the Pera Museum, Minnie Garwood, inventor of the Hill Cocktail, and the scholarly journalist David Barchard

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  • The Fabric of Life: Ergun Çağatay’s Epic Journey

    Caroline Eden tells Ergun Çağatay’s remarkable story

  • King of the Gobi

    John Hare on how the two-humped wild camel was saved from extinction

  • The art of letter writing

    Tim Stanley on a celebration of Şeyh Hamdullah and the 500-year-old calligraphy tradition that almost vanished

  • ... And a magnificent Süleyman

    A newly discovered 16th-century painting of Süleyman the Magnificent, sold by Sotheby’s London this spring (and subseqently donated to the Istanbul Municipality by an anonymous businessman), is the most ‘immediate’ portrait of him until the last years of his life. This is Süleyman in his pomp. By Julian Raby

  • Life after Life

    An affectionate tribute to Suna Kıraç by Özalp Birol

  • Sweet endings

    Fruit poached to perfection, the fragrant ‘hoşaf’, or compote, is a simple, soothing finale to any meal

  • Living the Ottoman Dream

    Berrin Torolsan is enchanted by the House of Hindliyan. Photographs by Tim Beddow

  • Behind palace doors

    Philip Mansel on a book that tells the story of the Pera-born dragoman Mouradgea d’Ohsson, the ultimate cosmopolite who lifted the lid on the Topkapı. This special 24-page feature, Cornucopia includes 28 of the images from Mouradgea’s magnum opus, Tableau général de l’Empire othoman

  • Adventures of the Three Donketeers

    Anatolia on foot 40 years ago, by Christopher Trillo, with photographs by the author and Stephen Scoffham

  • In the Realm of the Ice Queen

    Central Asia, a plant-hunter’s paradise, has long held Chris Gardner under its spell. For two decades the Antalya-based botanical writer and photographer has traversed countless miles of steppe and mountain in search of the hardier cousins of many of his favourite Turkish plants

Inside the issue


  1. Life after life: Remembering Suna Kıraç, with an affectionate tribute by Özalp Birol [extract available online]
  2. The Art of Letter Writing: Şeyh Hamdullah turns 500+, by Tim Stanley [available online]
  3. ... And a magnificent Süleyman [extract available online]
  4. Plus sale room and exhibition round-up, including Alev Ebüzziya's perfected pots, and Melih Fereli's sounds of silence at Arter, Sadberk Hanım's growing legacy at Meşher, Qajar art in Atlanta and at Christie's and a gorgeous aquamarine Knight at Sotheby's


  1. Gentile Bellini’s Portrait of Sultan Mehmed II, Reviewed by Rosamond E Mack. [available online]


  1. Sweet endings, by Berrin Torolsan. Photographs by Berrin Torolsan [extract available online]

From Our Correspondents

  1. Virtuoso reallity
  2. Mega bites Restaurants, by Andrew Finkel. [extract available online]
  3. Beauty and the bees, by Christopher Trillo. [extract available online]


  1. David Barchard, by Roger Norman (1948–2022) and Patricia Daunt.
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