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Issue 60, January 2020

Istanbul: The Ultimate Museum Guide

£12.00 / $15.59 / €14.26
($/€ approx)

A bumper 176-page edition, No 60 celebrates Istanbul’s myriad museums, from the Topkapı to Atatürk’s Art Deco Florya Sea Pavilion, not forgetting teasures further afield, such as the jaw-dropping new Troy Museum on the Dardanelles, and celebrating Istanbul’s retrospective of the ‘1914 Generation’ artist, Avni Lifij – ‘No one better caught the subtle, shifting tones of Istanbul.’

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DISCOVER ISTANBUL by buying Cornucopia’s Istanbul Unwrapped: The Quintet, a completely unique five-issue portrait of the city that captures Istanbul area by area then museum by museum. Delivery free worldwide.


  • Secrets of the City

    To celebrate our 60th issue we take a grand tour of Istanbul’s treasures – firm favourites and well-kept secrets, the tried and tested and the weird and wonderful, venerable institutions and cutting-edge arts spaces.

  • Troy Story 2: Of Love and War

    An exhibition at the British Museum draws on the wealth of art and literature inspired over centuries by the romance and mystery of Trojan history and mythology, Barnaby Rogerson is beguilded

  • Troy Story 1: Lost and Found

    A stark but stunning new museum opens a new chapter in the enduring story of Troy. By Barnaby Rogerson, with photographs by Don McCullin and Monica Fritz

  • The Modest Medlar

    Once ubiquitous and widely valued for its medicinal powers, the medlar has been neglected for more than a century as it calls for patience and cannot be mass-marketed. So take advantage of this ambrosial amber-coloured fruit wherever you find it – in street markets, in country gardens or in the wild. Text and photographs: Berrin Torolsan

Inside the issue

Istanbul: The Ultimate Museum Guide

    The must-sees of the museums quarter: the Topkapı, Ayasofya, temples to classical and Islamic art, the Sultan’s Lodge in the old port
    Beyoğlu’s bounty: Pera Museum, Arter and other head-turning new galleries. Horn of revelations: a secret pleasure pavilion, Mr Koç’s world of wonders, and a pristine power station. A proud new world: from Dolmabahçe on the Lower Bosphorus to the gritty images of Ara Güler
    The European side: the passions of private collectors – precious calligraphy, period costumes, classic cars
    The Asian side: the sultans’ summer palaces
    Cultural Oases: Along the Sea of Marmara and on to the Princes Islands


    The luminous art of Avni Lifij, by Rose Shepherd
    Denna Jones on Inspired by the East at the British Museum
    Eskişehir’s marvel in wood: Thomas Roueché on the new Japanese-designed museum of modern art
    Andrew Finkel tells the story of Arter, Istanbul’s newest art space, and Thomas Roueché admires the conceptual art
  4. Troy Story 1: Lost and Found, by Barnaby Rogerson. Photographs by Monica Fritz
  5. Troy: Myth and Reality, Reviewed by . [extract available online]


  1. Benjamin Anderson on the Byzantine book of the century [available online]
  2. Philip Mansel on the memoirs of the last Ottoman princess [available online]
  3. David Barchard on how Europe saw the Ottomans [available online]
  4. Caroline Eden on the Uzbek author Hamid Ismailov's novel Of Strangers and Bees [available online]
  5. Plus Tim Stanley on an 18th-century tanbur, and Caroline Eden on Hamid Ismailov’s Of Strangers and Bees


  1. THE MODEST MEDLAR by Berrin Torolsan [extract available online]


  1. Private View: The kindness of strangers, by Andrew Finkel
  2. Sound Bites: Transports of delight, by John Shakespeare Dyson
  3. Eating Out: Andrew Finkel’s search for the perfect kebab
  4. From our Correspondents: Caroline Eden in Tajikistan; Roger Norman on an Antolian bard
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