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Istanbul is on the cusp of irreversible change, its great heritage under threat. But it remains a city that enthralls. This special issue, the first in a four-part series of connoisseurs’ guides, celebrates the Ottoman and Byzantine legacy of the Old City and the Golden Horn, with in-depth descriptions of Topkapı Palace, Ayasofya and a quarter by quarter guide to all the other major monuments, shrines and museums, from the Landwalls to the rarely visited palace of Aynalıkavak Kasrı, plus restaurants, meyhanes, cafés and the Grand Bazaar’s most rewarding shops. The photographs in this invaluable companion to the city are by Fritz von der Schulenburg
Justinian’s soaring edifice inspires the same awe today as it did in visitors a millennium ago who wondered if this were Heaven or Earth. Setting out on a tour of the city’s best-preserved Byzantine churches, Robert Ousterhout still senses an air of the miraculous in Ayasofya
The long-awaited Naval Museum has many wonders to reveal, but nothing to compare with the fabulously ornate imperial barges
From a trusty staple to the stuff of feasts, beans are at the very heart of Turkish cuisine. How did we ever live without them?
In a vivid, impressionistic portrait of the Byzantine city, Robert Ousterhout uncovers the history of Byzantium in ten objects, explores the soaring edifice of Ayasofya and picks four of the city’s most inspiring smaller churches.
Take in the Topkapı, where the sultans held sway in secluded grandeur. Saunter round Sultanahmet and the Hippodrome: make the most of the mosques, monuments and museums. Get the buzz of the bazaar: where to snap up covetable collectables and cheerful bargains
Deep in the industrial outskirts of Istanbul, Griselda Warr enters an Aladdin’s cave of Anatolian treasures. Photographs by Fritz von der Schulenburg
AyşeDeniz Gökçin’s musical creations combine the rock-star appeal of Franz Liszt and the psychedelic/progressive brilliance of the band Pink Floyd. Tony Barrell found this prodigiously talented young pianist a force to be reckoned with. Photograph by Charles Hopkinson
John Carswell solves the mystery of the ‘lemon squeezer’ that wasn’t
In a decade of monitoring Turkey’s burgeoning wine industry, Kevin Gould has never been more impressed. He and the Cornucopia tasting team enthusiastically sampled this year’s top bottles and nominated their favourites
It is a joy to explore. New universities, a new museum, and a growing band of new aficionados who have invested modest means in old houses, have created a wonderful sense of optimism. But the ancient waterfront is in the eye of the storm, with many quarters due to be bulldozed and the threat of a hideous new marina. Enjoy it while you can
Give yourself over to the grit and bustle of Eminönü’s waterside markets, then ascend to Sinan’s sublime hilltop mosques – the awesome Süleymaniye and the haunting Şehzade. In their shadow is the exuberantly tiles Rüstem Pasha Mosque. Cornucopia devotes 24 pages to this vibrant area, with features on Eminönü and the Suleymaniye district with photographs by Jürgen Frank, and a guide to the mosques beautifully depicted by Fritz von der Schulenburg
Hidden away in one of Istanbul’s least prepossessing neighbourhoods is a walled garden surrounding a dream of a kiosk – a favourite of many sultans.
Within the deepest reaches of the palace lies the very seat of the sultans’ power
The Grand Bazaar: From Iznik to Armani, objets d’art to handloomed carpets: the choice is yours
When David Wheeler set out to satisfy his craving to explore Turkish gardens, he was guided by a diverse cast of committed Istanbul citizens. What he discovered were myriad horticultural havens, from Byzantine market gardens to Ottoman cemeteries – many of them under imminent threat.
SPECIAL OFFER: order five beautiful garden-themed issues, including this one, for only £80. List price £122
In his 40-year career, Sinan (1489–1588) transformed the Istanbul skyline. Here we explore three of the chief imperial architect’s masterpieces from the golden age of Süleyman the Magnificent. Photographs by Fritz von der Schulenburg
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The definitive guide to the changing city, in five fabulous issues, with articles by people who have long loved it, and glorious photographs that show it at its best.
Issue 50: The Sultan’s City
Issue 51: Beyoğlu Boogie
Issue 52: Bosphorus Requiem
Issue 53: The Princes Islands
Issue 60: Istanbul: The Ultimate Museum Guide
20% discount on the cover price of £98
Explore beautiful garden design, historic and contemporary, rural and urban in five garden-themed issues.
Issue 13: The Turkish Garden Issue
60 pages of gardens and flowers
Issue 18: The Ottoman Riviera
Article: Seven Gardens for Seven Heavens
Issue 29: Ottoman Gardens
Articles: The Ottoman Pleasure Garden & Wild Beauties of the South
Issue 31: China’s Wild West
Article: Along the Rocky Road
Issue 50: Istanbul Unwrapped: The Sultan’s City
Article: A City of Secret Gardens
Save 35% on the list price of £122
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