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Issue 43, 2010

Shrines and Sanctuaries

£8.00 / $10.34 / €9.50
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Hauntingly beautiful Labraunda, little-known capital of ancient Caria. Patricia Daunt, Yolande Crowe and Oya Pancaroğlu admire the Seljuk baroque great mosque at Divrigi, while Maureen Freely views the frozen panoramas of Nuri Bilge Ceylan. Dresden’s ‘Türckishe Cammer’ dazzles; Ephesus’s hanging houses amaze. Ogier Ghiselin de Busbecq and Melchior Lorck: a tale of undying rivalry. Piquant perfection: Berrin Torolsan on turnips and radishes


  • Journey to Divriği II: Not a Place for Those in a Hurry

    Reassuringly inaccessible, Divriği has always taken time to reach – and its riches time to savour. Patricia Daunt on the historical figures who made the journey

  • Frozen Moments

    Famous for his atmospheric films set in stark landscapes, Nuri Bilge Ceylan is now attracting attention with his photography. Maureen Freely leafs through the pages of a fine limited-edition album of his enigmatic, painterly scenes

  • Riding into History

    In September 2009, six travellers set out on horseback to retrace the early part of the route taken in 1671 by the Ottoman traveller Evliya Çelebi on his way to Mecca.

  • The Elusive Dane

    Spirited impressions of Ottoman Istanbul in the 16th century from a mischievous Danish artist and an acerbic Flemish envoy.

  • Back to Our Roots

    When eaten raw as a salad, turnips are shredded or thinly sliced like radishes. Their distinctive mustardy bite, which cleanses the palate, makes them excellent company for rich meats and fish. Cooking however, transforms the starch in the turnip, giving it a mellow taste.
    More cookery features

  • Journey to Divriği I: Sublime Portals

    The Great Mosque and Hospital of Divriği, an imperilled masterpiece of Islamic art in the remote upper Euphrates, is the only single building in Turkey given world heritage status. Cornucopia celebrates this medieval marvel with a 26-page guide to its mad, exuberant architecture through the stunning photographs of Cemal Emden

  • The Elector’s Turkish Treasures

    The city of Dresden is now home to one of the finest displays of Turkish art and armoury

  • Cult Capital of Caria

    Little known and rarely visited, the hauntingly beautiful sanctuary of Zeus at Labraunda – built by the family of the legendary Mausolus high above Milas – was for centuries Aegean Turkey’s most revered shrine. A Swedish team has managed to uncover the ruins without sacrificing the serenity of these sacred hills.

  • Journey to Divriği III: Meet the Ancestors

    Daniel Shaffer explains the value of the Great Mosque of Divriği’s ancient carpets.

Inside the issue


  1. The Elusive Dane, by Barnaby Rogerson. [available online]
  2. The Best of Enemies, by Barnaby Rogerson. [available online]
  3. A Grand Tourist, by Rupert Scott. [available online]
  4. From the Harpy Tomb to the Wonders of Ephesus, by Debbie Challis.The British Consular Service in the Aegean, by Lucia Patrizio Gunning. Reviewed by David Barchard (1947–2020). [available online]
  5. Where the Heart is, by John Freely (1926–2017). [available online]
  6. From the Sultan to Ataturk: Turkey, by Andrew Mango. Reviewed by David Barchard (1947–2020). [available online]
  7. Vibrant Voyages, by Caterina Scaramelli. [available online]


  1. Back to Our Roots
    Timeless recipes for radishes and turnips, by Berrin Torolsan


  1. Private View by Andrew Finkel
  2. Village Voices Azize Ethem's Iznik diary
  3. Eating Out The search for star quality
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