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Issue 14, 1997/98

Objects of Desire

£30.00 / $38.10 / €34.89
($/€ approx)

Pictures from a collector’s library: the amazing collection of Mr Atabey’s books. Lord Montagu’s motoring odyssey from Peking to Paris; Zeynep Fadıllıoğlu’s theatrical antiques; going in search of the elegant stone houses of Cappadocia; the raffish Levant – in Aleppo and Iskenderun – and discovering how to be a pumpkin-eater


  • Battle for the Bogs

    Anatolia’s new peat gatherers follow a rugged, self-sufficient way of life. But they are taking their toll on the rare flowers of the Turkish moors.

  • Mr Atabey’s Books

    Wherever he went in search of books on Turkey for his collection, Omer Koç was dismayed to find that the mysterious Mr Atabey had been there before him. Then, in an apartment in Paris, all was revealed: the world’s most magnificent collection of volumes on the Ottoman Empire and the Levant - a veritable treasure trove of beautiful books.

  • Shades of Greene

    Iskenderun and Aleppo were once vital trading posts of the Ottoman Empire. Today they straddle a border and are raffish outposts worthy of Graham Greene. Amicia de Moubray accompanied Iskenderun’s Honorary British Consul on a whistle-stop tour of the two cities. She discovered the legacy of liquorice and the East’s most enticing bazaar.

  • The Pumpkin Eaters

    In the seventeenth century, Evliya Çelebi, the Ottoman traveller, praised the size of the pumpkins of Varna on the Black Sea: a single fruit could weigh up to 60kg. Today in the Balkans, the custom is to slice off the stem end of a ripe pumpkin, scoop out its seeds and pour honey into the cavity. The top is then replaced like a lid and the pumpkin baked in the oven.
    More cookery features

  • To Paris or Perish

    Veterans of the Peking-to-Paris rally know that if you can nurse your car across the deserts, mountains and yak tracks of the great Asian landmass and reach Istanbul in one piece, the final leg on Europe’s roads should be a cruise. Lord Montagu of Beaulieu, an entrant in this year’s 90th anniversary event, sent home a diary of his - and others’ - adventures on this 12,000 mile marathon from Peking to Paris.

  • Frontier Castle

    High on a honey-coloured Cappadocian hillside, a remarkable Frenchman set himself the challenge of restoring the crumbling stone houses in the village of Uçhisar. Today, lovingly brought back to life, they stand tall once again. David Barchard was bewitched. Photographs: Sigurd Kranendonk

Inside the issue


  1. Connoisseur
    A viewer’s guide to salerooms and galleries,
    by Philippa Scott
  2. Art & Design
    The Istanbul Bienniel, by Elizabeth Meath Baker.
    Mughal metalwork, by Philippa Scott.
    Jewellery's young masters,
    by Elizabeth Meath Baker
  3. Issues of the Day
    Istanbul Diary, by Andrew Finkel.
    Ankara Diary, by Norman Stone.
    Money Matters, by Andrew Finkel
  4. Counterpoint
    The internet surfer's guide to Turkey,
    by David Barchard.
    The Cornucopia Investment Challenge.

Book Reviews

  1. Fate or Fiction
    The New Life, by Orhan Pamuk.
    Reviewed by Maureen Freely
  2. Time Travellers
    From the Holy Mountain: A Journey in the Shadow of Byzantium, by William Dalrymple.
    A Byzantine Journey, by John Ash.
    Dervish: The Invention of Modern Turkey,
    by Tim Kelsey.
    Reviewed by David Barchard
  3. One-woman Band
    Kaptan June and the Turtles, by June Haimoff.
    Reviewed by Chrissie Azize Ethem
  4. Wish We Were There
    Monuments of Unageing Intellect: Historical Postcards of Byzantine Istanbul,
    by Robert Ousterhout and Nezih Başgelen.
    Reviewed by John Freely
  5. State of the Art Nouveau
    Istanbul 1900: Art Nouveau Architecture
    and Interiors
    , by Diana Barillari.
    Reviewed by John Carswell
  6. Highland Dissent
    Daghestan:Tradition and Survival,
    by Robert Chenciner.
    Reviewed by Antony Wynn
  7. Mongolian Man
    Gobi: Tracking the Desert, by John Man.
    Reviewed by Antony Wynn
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