- What’s On
Heading East: Norman Stone gives a short history of Kars, Ali Konyalı captures the architecture, Michael Hornsby and Kate Clow conquer the Kaçkars, Raf Jah catches the train, Charles Perry tastes the Black Sea, Ahmet Baytaş steps into butterfly paradise.
Plus Christian Tyler on The Queen of the Uighurs, Maureen Freely on Istanbul impressionists, Berrin Torolsan on peppers hot and sweet
By whatever name it is known – whether Karataş Yayla (Black Rock Pasture) or ÇaGrankaya (Singing Rock) – this spur of the Kaçkars is full of drama. Andrew Byfield battled rain and fog to reach its riches
The work of Feyhaman Duran and his contemporaries, once dismissed as unfashionably figurative, is now attracting renewed interest. A recent exhibition at the Sakıp Sabancı Museum in Istanbul celebrated their work. Berrin Torolsan selects some of her favourites
High in the apparently empty Kaçkars, the way of life is as old as the hills. Michael Hornsby joins in the fun at a village festival in remote summer pastures. Photographs by Giulio Rubino
Norman Stone unravels the history of Kars
Unlocking the door to the private world of Feyhaman and Güzin Duran, by Maureen Freely
The Turkic Uighurs of Western China have long chafed under Communist Chinese rule. Christian Tyler meets their formidable figurehead, Rebiya Kadeer, who spent five years in prison for protesting against her people’s treatment and now carries on her fight for their freedom from Washington
For the English-speaking community of Istanbul the suggestion of aqueduct-hunting in Thrace strikes fear into the hearts of all but the foolhardy. Relentlessly cheerful, Prof James Crow of Edinburgh University would laugh off each misadventure and forge onward.
Robert Ousterhout is agog at the remarkable Georgian churches of the Tao-Klarjeti, the two medieval Georgian principalities between Kars and the Kaçkars
Leo Gough grew up in the hothouse atmosphere of Cold War Ankara, where his father was director of the British Institute of Archaeology. He recalls tales of derring-do from the larger-than-life visitors and scholars who passed through the institute’s doors
Kate Clow, pioneering waymarker and author of two walking guides to the Taurus Mountains, has now created a guide to trekking in the Kaçkars. Here she describes four breathtaking one-day walks.
Whether you are visiting Istanbul, Bursa, the Aegean coast or venturing further afield, this Cornucopia selection will complement your travels.
Issue 38: The Big Bursa Issue
Issue 41: Inside Istanbul’s Grand Hammams
Issue 42: Adventures in Anatolia (The Great Northeast)
Issue 43: Shrines and Sanctuaries (Labraunda and Divriği)
Issue 48: Rural Treasures (Denizli)
Issue 50: Istanbul Unwrapped
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Botanists Martyn Rix and Andrew Byfield investigate Turkey’s profusion of wildflowers from Mount Ida near Troy, to the valleys and headlands of the Taurus Mountains in the south, and to the Kaçkars in the north.
Issues 25:The Orchid Hunters
Issue 26: Kaz Dağı and the Vale of Troy
Issue 29: Plant-hunting in the Taurus
Issue 42: The Kaçkars
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