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Issue 23, 2001

Haute Ottoman

£8.00 / $10.20 / €9.39
($/€ approx)

Celebrating the most glorious garments of the Ottoman court and investigating memories of Madam: Dame Ninette de Valois’s role in the birth of Turkish ballet. Heaven scent: indulging in the ultimate attar of roses. We sail away along the Taurus, set off on rough journeys with Mitford & Bean, and enjoy Kargopoulo’s astonishing shots of empire – all finished off with the perfect peach


  • Shots of empire

    A new book on Vassilaki Kargopoulo: Photographer to His Majesty the Sultan. By Philip Mansel

  • Perfect Peach

    Dedicated to Venus by the Romans, no other fruit has so many symbolic and material associations with sensual beauty. Lovely soft pink flowers are followed by crimson velvetly fruit, soft and round, with a heavenly taste and aroma.
    More cookery features

  • Rapt in Silk

    William Morris and Mariano Fortuny familiarlised the West with the sumptuous floral designs of Ottoman textiles. But few are aware of the the bolder side of Turkish design

  • La Vie en Rose

    The intoxicating scent of attar of roses, the oil distilled from the petals of damask roses, has worked its magic on men and women for centuries. Martyn Rix traces the history of the damask rose from its roots in Neolithic times and travels to Isparta in southwest Anatolia to see how these precious petals yield up a liquid worth its weight in gold

  • Between the Taurus and the deep blue sea

    Few travellers to Turkey enjoying the hedonistic delights of Mediterranean cruising venture east of Antalya, capital of Anatolia’s Turquoise Coast – intimidated perhaps by rumours of a wild hinterland that even Alexander the Great found hard to tame. But those who dare to leave the crowds behind will discover an awe-inspiring landscape of cliffs that drop sheer to the sea, epic castles and remote Byzantine retreats. Kate Clow and Jacqueline de Gier joined ten other guests and a lecturer for a twelve-day voyage of enlightenment aboard a traditional gulet

  • Love at first sight

    Geoffrey Lewis, acknowledged as the dean of Turkish studies in Britain and beyond, learned the language while serving in the RAF in Egypt. When he finally visited Turkey, he was smitten for good. By Andrew Mango. Portrait by Charles Hopkinson

  • Rough Journeys: George Bean and Terence Mitford

    For more than thirty years Terence Mitford and George Bean painstakingly identified and recorded the forgotten ancient sites of Turkey’s Aegean and southern shores. Their contribution to the preservation of the country’s archaeological heritage is incalculable, their guidebooks are legendary, yet the men themselves are unsung. Barnaby Rogerson, in this homage to his heroes, uncovers an extraordinary pair: a gentle giant and a man of steel

  • Master of plaster

    The dusty rooms of a crumbling Istanbul palazzo are a living museum of the plaster-caster’s art. Berrin Torolsan visits the heir to a fine tradition. Photographs by Fritz von der Schuelnburg

Inside the issue


  1. The Book of Delights, by Alistair McAlpine (1942–2014). [available online]
  2. Master Builders of Byzantium, by Robert Ousterhout (1950–2023). Reviewed by John Julius Norwich (1929–2018). [available online]
  3. Blue & White, by John Carswell (2023). Reviewed by Julian Thompson (1941–2011). [available online]
  4. Turkish Foreign Policy 1774-2000, by William Hale. The European Union and Cyprus, by Christopher Brewin.
    Reviewed by David Barchard.
  5. The Other Side of the Mountain, by Erendiz Atasü. Reviewed by Alı Erginsoy.
  6. Walk this Way, by Andrew Finkel. [available online]


  1. Perfect Peach
    Berrin Torolsan on summer's ultimate thirst-quencher.

Regular Features

  1. Trade Secrets
    Master of Plaster, by Berrin Torolsan. Photographs by Fritz von der Schulenburg.
    [extract available online]
  2. Village Voices by Azize Ethem.
  3. Letter from Istanbul
    Finance report by Andrew Finkel
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