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Issue 28, 2003

Capturing the Black Sea

£12.00 / $15.53 / €14.26
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Astonishing portraits from another age of the Caucasian Peoples, and peak performance: heading through the Kaçkars on foot. Falling for Georgia; Russians in Istanbul: the Tsar’s rooftop churches; Fishing with Trotsky; Zonaro’s fin-de-siècle Istanbul; Fine filigree. Plus: golden ways with carrots


  • The Peoples that Time Forgot

    The Russian love affair with the Caucasus has been long and cruel, though the outside world knows little of the multitude of ethnic groups who for millennia have inhabited this remote strip of land the size of France.

  • Cavalcade of Colour

    Few cities have been served so faithfully by an artist as Istanbul was served, in its twilight years as a great imperial capital, by Fausto Zonaro. By Philip Mansel

  • Golden Opportunity

    Carrots once came in a broad palette of hues – from white, cream and yellow, through pink and deep red to purple and black – as well as variegated versions of them all. Black carrots from the east of Turkey were famed for their medicinal properties.
    More cookery features

  • Peak Performance

    Turkey’s Kaçkar Mountains, a daunting extension of the Caucasus high above the Black Sea, are only for the intrepid. Ali Özgü Caneri and Kate Clow took advantage of the short trekking season to scale two of the saw-edged summits. Photographs by Kate Clow.

  • Trotsky on Prinkipo

    Exiled by Stalin in 1929, Trotsky went to live on the Princes Islands near Istanbul. For four years he fished, wrote and developed the doctrine of Trotskyism. Remarkable photographs from the David King Collection show a quiet, ordered existence. Norman Stone uncovers the plotting that lay behind it.

  • Georgia on my Mind

    Turkey’s northeastern neighbour, Georgia, is a fairytale country with a hard edge, and its entrancing landscape of isolated hilltop cathedrals and medieval monasteries just demands to be explored. By Minn Hogg

  • Dome from Dome

    Built as way-stations for Orthodox pilgrims on their way to the Holy Land or Mount Athos, the rooftop churches of Karaköy are a forgotten corner of the Motherland in the heart of Istanbul. By Owen Matthews. Photographs by Simon Wheeler

Inside the issue


  1. A Passion for Politics
    Maureen Freely on the poetry of Nâzim Hikmet
    [extract available online]
  2. Keeping the Faith
    Beyond the Oxus by Monica Whitlock.
    Reviewed by Antony Wynn
    [extract available online]
  3. Monumental Discoveries
    David Barchard reviews Life's Episodes by Godfrey Goodwin
    [extract available online]
  4. Lightning Over Yemen: A History of the Ottoman Campaign 1569–71, trans Clive Smith.
    Reviewed by Venetia Porter
    [available online]


  1. Colourful Cavalcade
    Philip Mansel on the court painter Fausto Zonaro.
    [available online]
  2. Europe's First Sight of Blue and White,
    by John Carswell.
  3. High on Rugs
    Washington goes mad for antique rugs, by Philippa Scott and Daniel Shaffer


  1. Travellers' Tales: CJ Lousada winters on a small boat in the Gulf of Izmir
  2. Trade Secrets: The art of filigree,
    by Berrin Torolsan
  3. Village Voices, by Azize Ethem
  4. City Life: Won't you join the dance?
    by Anastasia Ashman
  5. Food for Thought: Restaurant reviews
    by Andrew Finkel, Owen Matthews and Christopher Ryan
  6. On the Turkish Grapevine: Rakı, Ouzo or Pernod? Aniseed with a difference,
    by Kevin Gould
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