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Issue 20, 2000

The Lake that Time Forgot

£12.00 / $15.25 / €14.25
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Near to the Mediterranean, but a world away, Lake Köyceğiz is the ultimate holiday destination. We meet Hussein Chalayan the London-based architect turned international couturier. Let the cymbals sound: Istanbul Agop, Abdülaziz in London, Mozart in Turkey, and Gallipoli recaptured. Plus: offal recipes for the stout of heart


  • The Lake Part I: Reflections on Water

    Minutes from the Mediterranean, Lake Köyceğiz is a beautiful backwater lost in time. Cornucopia devotes 40 pages to the lake, its people, its unique basket houses and the house that Ali Rıza Pasha built.

  • Pluck up the Courage

    If the thought of offal makes you wince, be bold. Overcome your fears and your efforts will be handsomely rewarded. Berrin Torolsan goes head over heels for offal, with a range of dishes for the timorous and the die-hard.
    More cookery features

  • The Lake Part II: Artist in Residence

    Sema Menteşeoğlu returned to Köyceğiz in 1992, after thirty years, to find her family home in perilous disrepair. She set about putting house and estate in order. Patricia Daunt and the photographer Fritz von der Schulenburg record a work in progress

  • The Lake Part III: The Basket Houses

    The whole of the Köyceğiz area is famous for its dwellings of woven wood. The best surviving ones are in Hamitköy, on the lake’s western shore. These unique primitive habitations, now abandoned for concrete apartments, probably date back to antiquity

  • Brave Old World

    The sad, heroic history of Gallipoli is written in every gully and ridge of the beautiful peninsula. William Gurney combs the battleground for clues

  • Ode to a Sultan

    When Sultan Abdülaziz embarked on his unprecendented state tour of Europe in 1867, no expense was spared in making him welcome. What most impressed him, it seems, were the musical extravaganzas: visits to the opera, glittering concerts and massed choirs trained to sing his praises in Turkish

  • Singing in the Seraglio

    Ateş Orga reviews Moshinsky’s Mozar in Turkey

Inside the issue

Lake Köycegiz

  1. A special 40-page celebration on the Mediterranean's last unspoilt gem,
    by Patricia Daunt with photographs
    by Fritz von der Schulenburg.
  2. Reflections on Water
    The story of the lake
    [extract available online]
  3. Artist in Residence
    The lady of the lake
    [extract available online]
  4. The Basket Houses
    The extraordinary wicker homes of Köyceğiz

People & Places

  1. Microphone Diplomacy
    Boris Johnson bids the Turkish Ambassador Özdem Sanberk a fond farewell
  2. Ode to a Sultan
    The epic orchestration of Abdülaziz's visit to London, by Emre Aracı
    [extract available online]
  3. Brave Old World
    A travellers guide to Gallipoli,
    by William Gurney
    [extract available online]

The Arts

  1. Singing in the Seraglio
    Ateş Orga reviews Moshinsky's
    'Mozart in Turkey'
    [available online]
  2. Hussein Chalayan
    Architecture for the body, by Melanie Rickey
    [extract available online]
  3. Let the Cymbals Sound
    Lesley Tahtakılıç on where they bash out
    the best top hats


  1. Pluck up the Courage
    Offal for the fearless, by Berrin Torolsan
    [extract available online]


  1. Ground force
    Turkish Embroideries at the Washington Textile Museum, by Philippa Scott
  2. Despatches, by Suna Erdem in Istanbul and Frances Kazan in New York
  3. Travellers' Tales
    Ill-met by Wolf-Light, by Ilona Medvedeva
  4. Village Voices
    Rural Dereköy bites back, by Azize Ethem
  5. Counterpoint
    Festival notes, by Elizabeth Meath Baker.
  6. Matrimony on the Menu
    The Contemporary Kilims of Belkis Balpınar,
    by Andrew Finkel
  7. Eating out in Istanbul, by Andrew Finkel

Book Reviews

  1. Mastering the Arts
    From architecture to embroidery, Henry Glassie chooses the best books on Turkish Art
  2. Turkey in a Nutshell
    From fact to fiction, David Barchard picks the books of the decade
  3. The Turkish Language Reform: A Catastrophic Success, by Geoffrey Lewis.
    Reviewed by David Barchard
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