- What’s On
From the oldest temple on earth to the madly modern hats of Merve Bayındır, Cornucopia 59 time-travels in style. We take you from late-Roman Rough Cilicia to the Eastern Black Sea, where falconry flourishes; discover the secrets of the Black Eunuchs’ quarters in Topkapı Palace, and revel in the glorious swansong of Iznik art in deepest Yorkshire.
Along the way, we meet people from all walks of life. The pianist İdil Biret, a child prodigy in the 60s and still formidable at 71, talks to Christian Tyler. David Barchard pays tribute to a pioneering balloonist, the late Kaili Kidner. Yıldız Moran, Turkey’s first great woman photographer, leaves Jamie Leptien amazed. And how Ara Güler woke up in Aphrodisias – Thomas Roueché tells the story.
In our cover story, Briony Llewllyn tells how the quintessential 19th-century Orientalist JF Lewis loved to paint himself – and his wife – into his pictures.
Great escapes see Henry Maguire turn the clock back to a teenage road trip across Sixties Anatolia and Raf Jah climbing aboard the Eastern Express. Robert Ousterhout sees Byzantine Anatolia through the eyes of the early travellers.
Plus: Shepherd’s delight – the wonders of white cheese; the many faces of the eccentric bohemian painter Mihri Rasim; ‘HALI’, the carpet buff’s bible, on its 40th birthday; İnci Eviner turning art inside out; Belkıs Balpınar’s cosmic kilims; the £5.3m portrait of Süleyman the Magnificent, and other stars of the saleroom.
As the Topkapi prepares to open up parts of the palace long kept hidden, we recall the time Cornucopia was granted rare access to what remains the most secret section of all – the quarters of the Black Agas. These powerful African eunuchs guarded the Harem and controlled the finances of the hugely wealthy Queen Mother. Text by Berrin Torolsan. Photographs by Fritz von der Schulenburg
Yildiz Moran abandoned photography for lexicography at the age of 30. But her decade behind the lens left an astonishing body of work, celebrated this year at Istanbul Modern. By Jamie Leptien
Robert Ousterhout spies the wonders of Anatolia through the eyes of early Western travellers
‘How my grandfather took Iznik to Yorkshire’ by Christopher Simon Sykes
Francis Russell drives the highways and byways of Rough Cilicia
Berrin Torolsan on the wonders of white cheese
Described by his friend the novelist William Makepeace Thackeray as ‘a languid Lotus-eater’, the Victorian Orientalist JF Lewis travelled to Turkey and Egypt and recreated what he saw of Ottoman life in loving, exotic detail – often painting himself and his wife into his pictures clad in elaborate local dress. Briony Llewellyn looks back over a life of many colours
Six millennia before Stonehenge, the dawn of the agrarian revolution came to the now arid Anatolian steppe – and with it came Göbekli Tepe, perhaps the first place of worship built by man. With its T-shaped columns and menacing animal carvings, it is an unacknowledged wonder of the ancient world. But who built it? And what went on here? By Barnaby Rogerson
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