Extract

The road to ruins

Francis Russell drives the highways and byways of Rough Cilicia

Not so far from the madding crowd, yet largely ignored, ‘Rough Cilicia’ hides a wealth of Roman and Byzantine ruins for those exploring the eastern stretches of Turkey’s Mediterranean. Francis Russell shows the way

  • The towering granite columns of the Temple of Tyche in ancient Olba, renamed Diocaesarea by Tiberius and known today as Uzuncaburç

Many sightseers follow the road along the south coast of Turkey and pause at Kızkalesi, the ancient Corycos, with its splendid Land Castle incorporating a Roman gate, and the beautiful eponymous “Maiden’s Castle” on its island, best seen from the mainland. Few linger. This is a mistake, as Kızkalesi is a convenient base for exploring the region known as Rough Cilicia, and visiting a remarkable number of Hellenistic and Byzantine sites…

To read the full article, purchase Issue 59

Issue 59, June 2019 Behind Closed Doors
£12.00 / $16.00 / 92.90 TL
Other Highlights from Cornucopia 59
  • Charmer Chameleon

    Described by his friend the novelist William Makepeace Thackeray as ‘a languid Lotus-eater’, the Victorian Orientalist JF Lewis travelled to Turkey and Egypt and recreated what he saw of Ottoman life in loving, exotic detail – often painting himself and his wife into his pictures clad in elaborate local dress. Briony Llewellyn looks back over a life of many colours

  • The Oldest Temple on Earth?

    Six millennia before Stonehenge, the dawn of the agrarian revolution came to the now arid Anatolian steppe – and with it came Göbekli Tepe, perhaps the first place of worship built by man. With its T-shaped columns and menacing animal carvings, it is an unacknowledged wonder of the ancient world. But who built it? And what went on here? By Barnaby Rogerson


  • Secret Chambers of the Black Eunuchs

    As the Topkapi prepares to open up parts of the palace long kept hidden, we recall the time Cornucopia was granted rare access to what remains the most secret section of all – the quarters of the Black Agas. These powerful African eunuchs guarded the Harem and controlled the finances of the hugely wealthy Queen Mother. Text by Berrin Torolsan. Photographs by Fritz von der Schulenburg


  • Eye of the Beholder

    Yildiz Moran abandoned photography for lexicography at the age of 30. But her decade behind the lens left an astonishing body of work, celebrated this year at Istanbul Modern. By Jamie Leptien


  • Adventures in the Wild, Wild East

    Robert Ousterhout spies the wonders of Anatolia through the eyes of early Western travellers

  • A room of his own

    ‘How my grandfather took Iznik to Yorkshire’ by Christopher Simon Sykes



  • Shepherd’s Delight

    Berrin Torolsan on the wonders of white cheese

Buy the issue
Issue 59, June 2019 Behind Closed Doors
£12.00 / $16.00 / 92.90 TL
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