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Issue 18, 1999

The Ottoman Riviera

£8.00 / $10.33 / €9.49
($/€ approx)

Patricia Daunt discovers the colourful past of Ratip Efendi’s Yeniköy yalı, once the playground of 1950s café society on the Turkish Riviera. We discover a Turkish garden in the Cambridge Fens, go sailing with heroes braving the Danube, and sail with hedonists drifting along the Carian shore. All the while feasting on vine leaves, the perfect wrap


  • Some Enchanted Evenings

    In the 1950s, a palely beautiful summerhouse on the Bosphorus made tbe perfect playground for the cream of café society. Now its luminous, airy rooms, emptied of fuss and colour, reveal their natural beauty. Patricia Daunt uncovers the colourful past of Ratip Efendi’s yali.

  • Seven gardens for seven heavens

    A Turkish-inspired garden on the Cambridge Fens. Two Turkish passions meet in John Drake’s beautiful garden: a love of symmetry and an abundance of wild flowers. Here the garden historian acknowledges his debt to the Turkish ideal of paradise on earth.
    SPECIAL OFFER: order five beautiful garden-themed issues, including this one, for only £80. List price £122

  • The Grand Parade

    When Ottoman sultans wanted to outshine European monarchs by the end of the sixteenth century they were choosing elaborate entertainments as their ammunition rather than solemn victory processions. In the second article in her series on East-West rivalry, Christine Thomson focuses on the Istanbul festivities of 1582, a spectacular street party lasting almost two months.

  • A Hard Day’s Sailing

    Some take the hard dusty route to the Mediterranean’s ancient sites. Christian Tyler approached them the hedonist’s way: cruising on a gulet along some of the most breathtaking coastline in the world.

  • Whistling Down the Wind

    Two isolated villages share an Ancient way of communicating across mountainous ravines. Andriëtte Stathi-Schoorel captures the last echoes in Greece and Turkey In Kuşköy (Bird Village), in the Eastern Black Sea Mountains, the ancient art of whistling is still taught to schoolchildren. It is in these very mountains, south of Trabzon, that Xenophon came upon a similar use of whistling nearly 2500 years ago. Only five communities in the world are known to share the ability to whistle their speech.

  • A Vine Romance

    For thousands of years man has enjoyed the succelence of the grape. But the fruit is not its only gift.
    More cookery features

  • Relative Values

    One hundred and ninety years after the young Charlton Whittall first opened for business in Izmir, the members of this great dynasty are dispersed throughout the world. In June 359 descendants gathered at a reunion in London to celebrate the one thing that still inspires them all: their memories of life in Turkey.

  • Carpet Clues

    An Egyptian rubbish heap reveals its buried treasure, mysterious birds deceive the eye, and Chinese clouds have silver linings. Philippa Scott continues her guide to the world of rug collecting

Inside the issue


  1. A Vine Romance
    Cooking with vine leaves, by Berrin Torolsan
    [available online]


  1. Connoisseur
    London and Paris salerooms and exhibitions,
    by Philippa Scott
  2. Heart of Glass
    Artisan glass-makers, by Elizabeth Meath Baker
  3. Village Voices
    Springtime in Dereköy, by Azize Ethem
  4. Counterpoint
    A Feast for the Ears, by Aisling Fallon;
    The Wine Revolution, by Umut Ülkümen;
    Eating Out, by Andrew Finkel

Book Reviews

  1. Georgia on my Mind
    Storm Over the Caucasus,
    by Charles van der Leeuw.
    Georgia: In the Mountains of Poetry,
    by Peter Naysmith.
    Reviewed by Antony Wynn
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