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Issue 32, 2004

Connoisseur’s Guide to Istanbul

£1000.00 / $1,263.26 / €1,182.70
($/€ approx)

A 160-page portrait celebrating the city in all its glory – the palaces and pavilions, mosques and markets, shops and shrines, waterways and watering holes. Istanbul: another view, with essays on the city past and present. Plus: fish from the Bosphorus


  • Bounty of the Bosphorus

    Every spring great shoals swim up through the Bosphorus to breed in the deep, cool waters of the Black Sea, returning south at the end of the summer to the warmer Sea of Marmara and Mediterranean. These twice-yearly visitors to Istanbul are the stars of the gastronomic world and have made the Bosphorus famous for its fish.
    More cookery features

  • A Stroll with the Master

    Owen Matthews wanders around the Golden Horn’s heady past with John Freely, the man who made strolling through the city an art

  • Walking the Golden Mile

    This is the starting point for any visitor, the very heart of two great empires. Andrew Finkel explores a world of beauty and grandeur dusting itself down for a third millennium

  • Ottoman Renaissance: The Conqueror’s Dream

    From the morning of May 31, 1453, until his death twenty-eight years later, Sultan Mehmet II was fixated with re-creating and repopulating his newly acquired capital, Konstantiniyye. Historian Heath Lowry sheds light on the Ottoman Renaissance.

  • The New Istanbul

    Past capital of empires, and heir to an uninterrupted urban tradition that stretches back millennia, Istanbul is all the tourist posters claim. Andrew Finkel traces its history.

  • Shopping

    Shopping has superficial connotations, but to set off into this city on a shopping expedition is to explore its culture in the most profound and fruitful way. Elizabeth Meath Baker provides an overview.

  • Byzantium: Mystery and Imagination

    Not all Byzantium is buried: in addition to its twenty-odd surviving churches and sundry ruined palaces and fortifications, if you look around any grand imperial mosque, you will inevitably find columns, capitals and other marbles borrowed from its Byzantine predecessor. Robert Ousterhout investigates.

Inside the issue

The Connoisseur’s Guide to Istanbul

  1. A 160-page portrait celebrating the city in all its glory. An area-by-area exploration of the palaces and pavilions, the mosques and markets, the shops and shrines, the waterways and watering holes. A guide for the discerning, with introductory essays on the city past and present. Photographs by Jürgen Frank

The Essays

  1. The New Istanbul: Crossroads of the World, by Andrew Finkel [available online]
  2. The Spend of History, by Elizabeth Meath Baker [available online]
  3. After Crimea: A Metropolis is Born, by David Barchard
  4. Ottoman Renaissance: The Conqueror's Dream, by Heath W Lowry [available online]
  5. Byzantium: Mystery and Imagination, by Robert Ousterhout [available online]

The Guide

    Sultanahmet, the Bazaars, the Golden Horn, by Andrew Finkel, Elizabeth Meath Baker, Owen Matthews, Robert Ousterhout and Godfrey Goodwin
  2. Sultanahmet
    Walking the Golden Mile, with Andrew Finkel
    [extract available online]
  3. The Golden Horn
    A Stroll with the Master: Owen Matthews explores the Golden Horn with John Freely
    [extract available online]

The Guide

    Beyoğlu, Çukurcuma, Nişantaşi, by Maureen Freely, Elizabeth Meath Baker and Suna Erdem
    All Along the Waterfront, by Patricia Daunt, Claire Karaz and John Carswell
    Some Enchanted Evening, by Owen Matthews
  4. Restaurants by Andrew Finkel, Hettie Judah and Anastasia Ashman


  1. Suits and Uniforms: Turkish Foreign Policy Since the Cold War, by Philip Robins
  2. The Turks Today by Andrew Mango. Reviewed by Norman Stone [available online]
  3. Byzantine Monuments of Istanbul by John Freely and Ahmet S Çakmak. Reviewed by David Barchard
  4. Young Turk by Moris Farhi. Reviewed by Antony Wynn [available online]


  1. Fish from the Bosphorus, by Berrin Torolsan [available online]


  1. Village Voices, by Azize Ethem
  2. Istanbul Diary: Jazz Notes, by Tony Barrell
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