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Issue 11, 1996

Anatolia Rediscovered

£50.00 / $63.35 / €59.15
($/€ approx)

John Julius Norwich explores the stunning archaeological splendour of Aphrodisias; David Barchard goes on a hunt for the lost Byzantine churches of Cappadocia; John Carswell relaxes in Amasya’s cool courtyards; and John Ashe heads out on the road to Kubadabad. ‘A Stranger in Paradise’: we examine Louise Page Morris’s haunting Izmir memoir. Plus zestful oranges


  • Aphrodite’s Domain

    The finest school of sculpture in all antiquity was in Aphrodisias. Above the valleys of the Meander in Turkey’s Aegean hinterland, this favourite city of the Emperor Augustus remained largely unknown until the photographer Ara Güler brought it to the attention of the Princeton scholar Kenan T Erim in 1959. Here Ara Güler returns to the city and John Julius Norwich recalls Professor Erim and his first impressions of the sculptures that took his breath away.

  • Lake Shore Drive

    The Mosque of Esrefoğlu in Beyşehır, is one of the most beautiful in Anatolia. Built in 1298, it recalls earlier Central Asian traditions. Wooden columns with carved capitals support the splendid roof.

  • Bright Orange

    Tracing the history of this beautiful fruit is like reading a fairy tale. It spans continents and cultures like no other fruit, from its presumed natural habitat in the foothills of the Himalayas to the scented paradise gardens of the eastern Mediterranean and the orange groves of California.
    More cookery features

  • Vintners of Tokat

    The bunch of Narince grapes Ali Riza Diren is holding in his Anatolian vineyard (illustrated in this vintage issue of Cornucopia) is the raw material of a well kept secret. Tokat’s is an ancient wine, and its production was revived by Ali Riza’s father, to the delight of ambassadors and the approval of a Sotheby’s connoisseur.

  • Churches of the Rock

    High on the central Anatolian plateau, the craggy undulations of Cappadocia’s volcanic landscape conceal a silent world: countless Byzantine sancturies and cathedrals lovingly hollowed from the rock. David Barchard finds two valleys undisturbed since the Dark Ages. Photographs by Sigurd Kranendonk

  • Divan Inspiration

    Amasya, Tokat and Merzifon were once on the trade routes to China, centres of scholarship and commerce. Today they are secluded enclaves of traditional pleasures. John Carswell enjoys a feast of delicate architecture and heady wines. Photographs by Simon Upton

  • House of Great Illusions

    Hidden among the concrete blocks of Teşvikiye is a magnificent mansion riddled with mystery. Masquerading as a Venetian palazzo, Tozan House has disappearing passages, secret stairs and eccentricities it shares with its creator

  • The snowdrop treat

    When Mike Read, the plant conservation officer for Fauna and Flora International (FFI), uncovered a large illegal trade in wild bulbs from Turkey in the 1980s, he and his colleagues were greatly concerned…

Inside the issue


  1. Arif Mardin
    Profile of an arranger and producer,
    by David Barchard
    [available online]
  2. Vibrant Visions
    Turkish contemporary art in London,
    by Valerian Freyburg


  1. Connoisseur
    Carpets, paintings and objets d'art:
    a viewer's guide, by Philippa Scott
  2. Diary
    Issues of the Day, by Andrew Finkel.
    Cornucopia's Investment Challenge
  3. Shopping
    Hot hues, winter warmers, by Bridget Freer
  4. Eating Out in Istanbul
    High Tables, by Andrew Finkel.
    Low Tables, by Molly McAnailly Burke

Book Reviews

  1. The Seljuk Achievement
    The Seljuks, by Mine Timur Bragner. Reviewed by Derek Hill
  2. Turkish Labyrinth
    The Black Book, by Orhan Pamuk. Reviewed by Sevil Delin
    [available online]
  3. Ceramic Souvenirs
    Çanakkale Ceramics, by A Altun and H Yılmaz. Reviewed by John Carswell
  4. Plus: Of monks and generalsA selection of books on Byzantium reviewed by David Barchard [available online]
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