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Issue 19, 1999

Forgotten Riches

£12.00 / $15.18 / €14.20
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James Mellaart looks back on his discovery of the astonishing wall paintings of Çatalhüyük, the world’s first city. Philip Mansel investigates the Ottoman booty of Poland’s kings, and we discover the mosque tiles of Edirne, Safranbolu, a small-town blueprint for living, the drama of Moda Bay in winter, and the tragic fatal flaw of Turkey’s 1999 earthquake. Plus a feast of delectable leeks


  • The Fatal Flaw

    Norman Stone introduces a special report by rescuers and writers on the August earthquake and its aftermath

  • The Whittalls in Winter

    Yolande Whittall looks back at 1930s life in Moda, across the strait from the domes and minarets of Istanbul. In Grandmother Whittall’s garden, where the snow fell deep and crisp, tobogganing parties were laid on for the children. In the kitchen Christmas puddings were stirred, and shooting parties provided the wherewithall for woodcock pie…

  • Eastern Overtures

    War and Peace: Ottoman Relations in the 15th to 19th centuries’, an exhibition at the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts, Istanbul, 1999 For 500 years the Polish elite was obsessed with all things Ottoman. Yet a brilliant exhibition celebrating this passion went sadly unnoticed. Philip Mansel reports.

  • James Mellaart: Under the Volcano

    Nine thousand years ago, the plain of Konya was a hive of activity. Before the Mesopotamians, Minoans or Egyptians, the people of Çatalhüyük created one of the first cities known to man. James Mellaart, who unearthed the city and its stunning wall paintings, recalls the stages of a momentous discovery

  • Rhapsody in Blue

    Soon after blue and white ceramic was born in China, it made its first glorious appearance in a mosque in the early Ottoman capital of Edirne. John Carswell unlocks a well-kept secret

  • Safranbolu: A Bourgeois Paradise

    A 20-page celebration of Safranbolu, the perfect small town. The lovingly maintained Mümtazlar Konağı is just one of the many handsome old houses that distinguish the Anatolian market town of Safranbolu. With iron deposits, lush forests and fields growing the valuable saffron croci that gave the town its name, Safranbolu prospered quietly for 1,500 years.

  • Bringing Back Babylon

    This modest plant grows easily, cooks easily and digests easily. It is also an excellent health giver. The 10th century physician Ibn-Sina (Avicenna) recommends leeks against colds, coughs and unclean air.
    More cookery features

Inside the issue


  1. Bringing Back Babylon
    Leek dishes from the simple to the exotic,
    by Berrin Torolsan


  1. Connoisseur
    Eastern Overtures: Poland's Ottoman inheritance, by Philip Mansel
    [extract available online]
  2. Collecting Carpets
    The Rug Bug, by Philippa Scott
  3. Despatches
    Correspondents report from Istanbul, New York, Champaign-Urbana and Sydney
  4. Healing Art
    The fine art restorer Hadice Nalçabasmaz,
    by Elizabeth meath Baker
  5. Travellers' Tales
    Wonders Never Cease: a visit to Halicarnassus, by Ilona Medvedeva
  6. Play it Again Pet
    New Istanbul restaurants and old favourites further afield,
    by Andrew Finkel
  7. Counterpoint
    Dying Days of the Ottoman Harem: Suna Erdem reviews 'Harem Soirée'.
    Swinging Back to the Sixties: the Istanbul Biennial, by Susan Platt.
    Music on the Move: Aisling Fallon on the 11-year-old Ankara-born AyşeDeniz Gökçin, diploma-prize-winner at the Kiev Young Pianists Competition
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