Issue 47, 2012

Queen of the Nomads

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Josephine Powell, the Manhattan-born ‘queen of nomads’, graces the cover in a bewitching self-portrait, as her Anatolian images go on show in Istanbul. The Dutch captured the Levant 400 years ago: to celebrate, Philip Mansel and Eveline Sint Nicolaas introduce a feast of ‘Turkish’ paintings. Plus: David Barchard on the death of Ottoman Europe, Patricia Daunt on why Roman Ankara is back on top, a tribute to the writer and ‘guerrilla grandee’ Paddy Leigh Fermor, and a singularly beautiful country house – all washed down with fabulous fizz and crisp, cool watermelon.
See what’s inside: scroll down for full contents.

Highlights

  • Fly in the Face of Fashion

    Rather than follow the crowd and dismiss Ankara as a dull, soulless modern capital, says Patricia Daunt, visitors should take time to discover why the famed Angora of old, twice capital in ancient times, is back on the map.

  • The Wines They Are A-Changing

    Over the past decade Turkey’s wine industry has come of age. It is now more than ready to join the grown-ups of the wine-producing world. Kevin Gould and the Cornucopia team pick the best of a sparkling bunch. Photographs by Berrin Torolsan.
    Cornucopia’s self-guided wine tours

  • Bloodshed in the Balkans

    The First Balkan War, a hundred years ago, is an obscure affair, overshadowed by the First World War that followed. But it ended the Ottoman Empire in Europe and came close to ending Turkey itself. It left almost half a million refugees and three times as many dead. David Barchard tells the story of a catastrophic conflict

  • The Daredevil Scholar

    With a taste for adventure Indiana Jones would appreciate, the Dutch architectural historian Machiel Kiel has risked life and limb in his mission to expose the annihilation of Ottoman monuments in the Balkans. The art historian Holta Vrioni pays tribute to his work and exploits

  • The Coolest Thing

    ‘Never swim before the first watermelon rind falls into the water,’ goes an old Istanbul saying. By the time they ripen, the sea will have reached just the right temperature for swimming.

  • The Curious Cabinet of Cornelis Calkoen

    When Amsterdam’s renovated Rijksmuseum reopens in 2013, the public will be able to visit the Turkish Cabinet of Cornelis Calkoen, the Dutch republic’s ambassador to Istanbul from 1727 to 1744. For more than a century now the museum has been the keeper of his collection of paintings.

  • A Nomad Among Nomads

    She was born to be a New York society beauty, but the late Josephine Powell’s chosen world was that of the Anatolian Nomad. Five years after her death, her archive of photographs recording old Anatolia in all its glory will see the light of day in Istanbul

  • A Dutch Treat

    As Turkey and the Netherlands celebrate
    400 years of fruitful trade with a series of spectacular exhibitions in both countries, Philip Mansel, author of a new history of the Levant, reflects on the curious role of the Dutch at the Sublime Porte

  • Yörük Köy: A Mansion of Perfect Modesty

    Not far from the World Heritage city of Safranbolu lies the quiet village of Yörük Köyü, once famed for its valiant cavalry. Berrin Torolsan continues her series on Anatolia’s country houses with a visit to the Sipahioğlu Konak, a beautifully built mansion of satisfying simplicity and unassuming flair.

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Issue 47, 2012
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£6.00 / $7.80 / 27.57 TL
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