Issue 29, 2003

Ottoman Gardens

£12.00 / $15.12 / 81.29 TL
($/TL approx)

How gardening became an art form. A modern house in old Kalkan. Ottoman Kirkuk after the war. The earliest photographs of Istanbul; the Virgin Mary’s house at Ephesus; the brilliant Strangfords; flora of the deep south. Plus: tomatoes, little capsules of sunshine.


  • Solar Power

    Red peppers, chillies, maize and sunflowers set the Mediterranean ablaze with their pungent flavours and fiery colours. But of all the Aztecs’ gifts, it is the tomato, above all, that tastes of the sun

  • The Ottoman Pleasure Garden

    The Ottomans were not only passionate about flowers. They turned the enjoyment of gardens into an art form. John Carswell leafs through a lavish volume which unlocks the gate to the pleasure grounds of Istanbul’s imperial palaces.
    SPECIAL OFFER: order three beautiful garden-themed issues, including this one, for only £35. List price £50

  • Alchemy on a Plate

    Sold in 2003 for record prices, these magical daguerrotype plates of Istanbul in the 1840s are the earliest known photographic images of the city. They are the work of Joseph-Philibert Girault de Prangey, an obsessive Frenchman with a passion for Islamic architecture. By Elizabeth Meath Baker.

  • Mary’s House

    In the closing years of the nineteenth century, the Aegean coast of Turkey witnessed three of the greatest archaeological finds of all time. The discovery of Ephesus and Troy made international headlines overnight. But the third – an unassuming stone house in an isolated forest – was immediately enveloped in secrecy. By Donald Carroll

  • City of Shadows

    Under the Ottomans, Kirkuk’s ancient citadel was the heart of a thriving cosmopolitan city. But politics and oil have reduced it to a deserted ruin. Owen Matthews, who has been covering northern Iraq for several years, visited Kirkuk at the end of the recent war. Photographs by Ashley Gilbertson

  • Wild Beauties of the Deep South

    Martyn Rix sidesteps the concrete condos of the Turkish Riviera to go searching for native flowers

  • The House on the Hill

    Dipping into a Mediterranean idyll, Stephen and Nina Solarz have built a haven high above the harbour of Kalkan. Andrew Finkel paid them a visit. Photographs by James Mortimer

  • Connoisseur 29

    A small and perfectly formed exhibition of Iznik pottery held in Qatar has given birth to a fittingly exquisite catalogue

Inside the issue


  1. Profusion that calls for pruning: John Drake reviews Nurhan Atasoy's A Garden for the Sultan [available online]
  2. Wild West China, by Christian Tyler. Reviewed by Antony Wynn. [available online]
  3. The Nature of the Early Ottoman State, by Heath W Lowry. Reviewed by Norman Stone. [available online]
  4. The quiet opposition: David Barchard reviews The Alevis in Turkey, by David Shankland [available online]


  1. Solar Power
    Tomatoes - the taste of summer all year round,
    by Berrin Torolsan
    [available online]
  2. Off the Eaten Track
    Charles Perry on the Central Asian way with noodles


  1. Private View, by Andrew Finkel
  2. Trade Secrets
    Beyoğlu's bespoke shoe shops
  3. Village Voices, by Azize Ethem
  4. Istanbul Diary
    Dance, classical music, jazz and the Biennial
  5. Food for Thought
    Eating out in Istanbul, Kalkan and Edinburgh
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Issue 29, 2003
£12.00 / $15.12 / 81.29 TL
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