Extract

City of Shadows

The Citadel of Kirkuk

Under the Ottomans, Kirkuk’s ancient citadel was the heart of a thriving cosmopolitan city. But politics and oil have reduced it to a deserted ruin. Owen Matthews, who has been covering northern Iraq for several years, visited Kirkuk at the end of the recent war. Photographs by Ashley Gilbertson

  • The citadel of Kirkuk, seen from the minaret of a mosque across the Khasa river

The ghost of the citadel of Kirkuk – or Kerkük as the Turks now know it – appears at dawn, when the domes and minarets of the old city are picked out by the sunrise and its broken walls seem whole. In the half-light, the citadel hill looks grand and brooding, and you can imagine that the city is sleeping instead of dead.

Only when the light strengthenes do you see that the heart of what was once a thriving and ancient trading centre, one of the southernmost outposts of Turkish civilisation, is now just an empty husk.

To read the full article, purchase Issue 29

Issue 29, 2003 Ottoman Gardens
£12.00 / $16.64 / 63.17 TL
Other Highlights from Cornucopia 29
  • Connoisseur 29

    A small and perfectly formed exhibition of Iznik pottery held in Qatar has given birth to a fittingly exquisite catalogue

  • Solar Power

    Red peppers, chillies, maize and sunflowers set the Mediterranean ablaze with their pungent flavours and fiery colours. But of all the Aztecs’ gifts, it is the tomato, above all, that tastes of the sun


  • The Ottoman Pleasure Garden

    The Ottomans were not only passionate about flowers. They turned the enjoyment of gardens into an art form. John Carswell leafs through a lavish volume which unlocks the gate to the pleasure grounds of Istanbul’s imperial palaces.
    SPECIAL OFFER: order three beautiful garden-themed issues, including this one, for only £35. List price £50


  • Alchemy on a Plate

    Sold in 2003 for record prices, these magical daguerrotype plates of Istanbul in the 1840s are the earliest known photographic images of the city. They are the work of Joseph-Philibert Girault de Prangey, an obsessive Frenchman with a passion for Islamic architecture. By Elizabeth Meath Baker.


  • Mary’s House

    In the closing years of the nineteenth century, the Aegean coast of Turkey witnessed three of the greatest archaeological finds of all time. The discovery of Ephesus and Troy made international headlines overnight. But the third – an unassuming stone house in an isolated forest – was immediately enveloped in secrecy. By Donald Carroll

  • Wild Beauties of the Deep South

    Martyn Rix sidesteps the concrete condos of the Turkish Riviera to go searching for native flowers



  • The House on the Hill

    Dipping into a Mediterranean idyll, Stephen and Nina Solarz have built a haven high above the harbour of Kalkan. Andrew Finkel paid them a visit. Photographs by James Mortimer

Buy the issue
Issue 29, 2003 Ottoman Gardens
£12.00 / $16.64 / 63.17 TL