Heading East: Norman Stone gives a short history of Kars, Ali Konyalı captures the architecture, Michael Hornsby and Kate Clow conquer the Kaçkars, Raf Jah catches the train, Charles Perry tastes the Black Sea, Ahmet Baytaş steps into butterfly paradise.
Plus Christian Tyler on The Queen of the Uighurs, Maureen Freely on Istanbul impressionists, Berrin Torolsan on peppers hot and sweet
Robert Ousterhout is agog at the remarkable Georgian churches of the Tao-Klarjeti, the two medieval Georgian principalities between Kars and the Kaçkars
Leo Gough grew up in the hothouse atmosphere of Cold War Ankara, where his father was director of the British Institute of Archaeology. He recalls tales of derring-do from the larger-than-life visitors and scholars who passed through the institute’s doors
Kate Clow, pioneering waymarker and author of two walking guides to the Taurus Mountains, has now created a guide to trekking in the Kaçkars. Here she describes four breathtaking one-day walks.
High in the apparently empty Kaçkars, the way of life is as old as the hills. Michael Hornsby joins in the fun at a village festival in remote summer pastures. Photographs by Giulio Rubino
Norman Stone unravels the history of Kars
Feyhaman and Güzin Duran at home, by Maureen Freely
The Turkic Uighurs of Western China have long chafed under Communist Chinese rule. Christian Tyler meets their formidable figurehead, Rebiya Kadeer, who spent five years in prison for protesting against her people’s treatment and now carries on her fight for their freedom from Washington
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